Breakfast with the Boss: Mia Dell'Osso-Caputo, Creative Director and GVP of Merchandising of Men's at Kenneth Cole Productions

Engrossed in Kenneth Cole’s sophisticated-yet-classic urban lines and natural tones with pops of color, the YMA Fashion Scholarship Scholars took a seat at the table for the last “Breakfast with the Boss” of the summer, featuring Mia Dell’Osso-Caputo. In addition to hearing about Mia’s exciting day-to-day process as Creative Director and GVP of Men’s Merchandising, we had the opportunity to walk around the rooms that comprise the heart of Kenneth Cole’s creative design process, getting a hands-on feel for the fabrics and sketches. We couldn’t have asked for a more exciting finish to our 2015 “Breakfast with the Boss” series. Take a look!  

About Kenneth Cole Productions
Kenneth Cole Productions designs, sources and markets a variety of fashion footwear, handbags, apparel and accessories. The company’s three labels include Kenneth Cole Reaction, Kenneth Cole New York, and Kenneth Cole Black Label. Kenneth Cole’s designs have located a special niche within the industry as fashion-forward product that reflects a modern metropolitan lifestyle. Products range from the core basics that remain in our closets to trending and seasonal products, a combination that provides “freshness in assortments” while staying true to the urban customer’s fashion needs. The balance of sales from retail to wholesale throughout its three core lines increases the company’s opportunities in all distribution channels. 

Behind the Design
Mia engaged us with visuals in the form of sketches and concept boards to give us a sense of the origins of her design team. She explained the process of formulating concept and color, which begins with the design and merchandising teams coming up with concept boards internally, and building “brand rooms” which reflect themes and ideas. Next, these design boards are taken to the market and used as a pitch to sell the story in hopes of exciting buyers. Mia walked us through the “Concept in Color” boards that lay out the standout colors by month, as well as boards devoted to the class Kenneth Cole Blackout and Whiteout schemes. We also got to see overarching concept boards of the season, which are used as inspiration for the design team to pull from when detailing its apparel for the season.
 
Mia noted, “Our ‘Urban Uniform’ look takes the form of an interchangeable closet, where no one is buying head-to-toe anything. Yes, some people are wearing suits every day, but the majority of the country is building their closet savvier. You’re buying and investing in individual pieces, and figuring out that there are no boundaries…there are many ways to put them together. We’re very lucky that when we design clothes, we can say ‘Let’s try it!’ and just go for it. It’s a fun experience not to have any boundaries, and not to be tied to any traditional DNA.” Currently, the design team is working on incorporating technology into its everyday urban apparel, while also making the environmentally conscious shift towards “season-less clothing” a priority. 

Words of Wisdom

• Teamwork. At Kenneth Cole, the whole team works together, from drawing board to final product. “It takes a team to build a line.” 
• Persistence. “It’s not easy out there, especially when first starting out in the industry. You just have to stay positive—go at it!” 
• Network. “Keeping those contacts is so important, because a lot of times the job posting doesn’t make it to the ad or to the agency. If I’m looking to fill a position, I call [the people I know]. That’s something that happens a lot in the industry, which is why that network is important to have.”
• Good First Impression. “In that first moment of professional contact, you want to be just outgoing enough, look like a go-getter, but you don’t want to have so overpowering a personality that the interviewer can’t ask you any questions!” 

Q&A
Q: May He- “Within your design team, how are the departments separated?”
 
A: “We work with design services on concepts and colors, and design services works on how to get the same message across to all licensees. [Our department] takes it and figures out how to make it menswear. The way the team is broken down is that we have designers by category—woven shirts, knits and sweaters, denim, and outerwear. Then we have a merchandising team, a production team, and a technical team. Everyone is mirrored by category—there’s a family to line-build with. If you’re here on knits and sweaters, you’re going to work closely with the merchandising and sourcing teams, so that along the way you become a unit and everyone knows what you’re doing. At Kenneth Cole, our work is from conception to production—we sketch it, then tech pack it, then fit it…your baby is your baby! I love that experience. If we want to put a trim on a garment, it’s not like we have to go to a trim department and ask. It’s purely in our hands, and we get to do it from beginning to end. It’s a different kind of work style, and I love working that way, but it’s not for everyone.”
 
Q: Caley Taylor (Kent State University)- “How are you able to differentiate between the 3 different labels and customers that fit those labels, while also keeping an overall Kenneth Cole aesthetic?”
 
A: “It’s a ‘Good, Better, Best’ strategy built by pricepoint. It’s one brand—there are only so many trends, and we’re Kenneth Cole in DNA no matter what price point. If it’s all about the jogger this season, we don’t say, ‘which brand should we put that in?’ but rather, we’ll put some in an opening price point at $60, and go all the way up to an $800 leather jogger for Black Label. It all has to go together. In our own house, in theory, I should be able to use all of the product from the three lines together and be able to make it look cool together.”
 
Q: Madeline Hanley- “Was there ever a time that you doubted yourself as a designer?”
 
A: “Seeing the samples come in, you’re always worried that it’s not going to come together, but ultimately it always does. I’ve been fortunate to do a lot of types of product [throughout my career] and I’m at a place now where I feel confident in what I do. One thing you learn over the years is that you have to be an amazing seller of yourself. A true designer, when they’re passionate about what they’ve done, will be able to sell to internal teams as well as customers."

Thank you to Mia for ending our summer series on such a high note! 

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Rachel Feller

Breakfast with the Boss: Karen Murray, President of Sportswear at VF Corporation

Upon entering the VF Sportswear showroom to hear from the wonderful Karen Murray, the scholars’ Monday-morning blues quickly vanished as they took in Nautica’s refined, sophisticated palette. At this week’s first “Breakfast with the Boss,” we had the pleasure of speaking with Karen, who in addition to her role as President of Sportswear at VF Corporation overseeing the Nautica and Kipling brands, serves on the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Board of Governors. We were also fortunate to meet Andrew Fletcher, Director of Strategy and Business Development for VF Sportswear. Both Karen and Andrew shared their stories and gave us an insider’s look at VF’s product, core values and current strategic plan. Here is just a small portion of what we learned! 

About VF Corporation
VF Corporation, a global leader in branded lifestyle apparel and footwear with more than 30 brands.  The company’s five largest brands are The North Face, Vans, Wrangler, Timberland, and Lee.  Other brands include 7 For All Mankind, Bulwark, Eagle Creek, Eastpak, Ella Moss, JanSport, Kipling, Lucy, Majestic, Napapijri, Nautica, Red Kap, Reef, Riders, Splendid, and SmartWool. 

Nautica was purchased by VF Corporation in 2003. Karen shared a little bit with us about Nautica’s current brand journey.  Over the past two years, the Nautica team, in partnership with VF Corporation, conducted a global consumer segmentation study to identify a bulls eye target consumer.  

The Boss’ Journey: Steps to Success
Karen graduated from the University of Maryland as a Criminal Justice major, originally thinking she would go on to become a lawyer. Upon realizing law school was not the future she envisioned for herself, she came to New York and decided to try out the “glamorous” field of fashion. As Karen explained, those first few months were “anything but glamorous.” She began at Gant, a men’s shirts company, answering phones, managing the office and cleaning up showrooms. Despite the fact that women purchase the majority of men’s apparel, Karen was surprised to be the only woman in the company’s office. Three years later, realizing that women made over half of the menswear purchases, the president of a big retailer called on her to put together an assortment of shirts. Through this experience, Karen learned that she had a knack for sales and was quickly promoted to various sales positions that lead to the VP of Sales. She stayed at Gant for ten years before moving on to Liz Claiborne, where she truly began to understand “how to make money and how women could work in business but still have a family.” She stayed for ten years, rising to the title of Group President of the Men’s division, before moving on to VF Corporation. As Karen shared with us, “I’ve learned more in my seven years at VF with the Nautica and Kipling Brands than I’ve learned in my thirty years prior in the industry, partly thanks to the principles and practices that VF employs.” Today, Karen serves as President of VF’s Sportswear Coalition. 

Known as one of the first women in the menswear industry, Karen emphasized that, despite the odds, achieving success in a male-dominated industry proved possible. At the beginning of her journey, she found it difficult being promoted to sales, as she was told that a woman “would never understand what men want to wear.” One of the most crucial pieces of advice that Karen offered our scholars, particularly the women in the group, is that “you can still have a family and a career and do whatever it is that you feel passionate about.” She explained, “People say a woman can’t ‘have it all,’ but you really can.” With hard work and determination, Karen proved herself as a leading executive in the menswear industry and inspired our scholars to pursue their passions regardless of obstacles they feel stand in their way. 

There are many different avenues for each and every one of you, and the most important thing is to find something you love,” Karen shared. “There’s not a day that I’ve woken up and didn’t look forward to going to work.”

Words of Wisdom

• Focus on the Consumer and Innovation. You may make choices about product design and merchandising, and you can lose some customers. You have to make decisions about which new elements you want to introduce to invigorate the brand, but also acknowledge what needs to change or evolve. Keep your eyes always on the target consumer and constantly innovate and evolve your brand. 
• Build relationships. Karen shared that, “to this day, the relationships I built with buyers and department store managers in early stages of my career have helped me grow and build my career to where it is today.  I took every one of those opportunities and built strong partnerships.” 
• There is no one “right” path. You don’t have to start in sales, design, or merchandising to be President—there are many different paths to the same place. “Be proud of the industry you chose, think about where you want to go and have passion for what you do, and you’ll get there.” 

Q&A
Q: Madeline Hanley (Indiana University)- “How did you alter your product (Kipling) and position it internationally (specifically, in Asia)?”
 
“When things catch on in Asia, they take on a life of their own. It’s a younger customer there, but the younger customer really loved the bright colors, the printed nylon, the furry monkey (people started collecting them!) and girls started wearing the backpacks…once it caught on, it became like a cult—everyone had to have one. The hard part was not getting it to catch on, but how we would bring it to other parts of the world that didn’t even know about it. It’s all the steps you take (advertising, marketing, blogging) to bring [the product] to a new marketplace that are really important in changing consumer awareness. But [Kipling] does have a long way to go as a brand until we can ask people about it and have them know exactly what it is. People are very aware of Nautica, but we still have work to do to get Kipling to that level, even if we are making huge progress.”
 
Q: Alicia Underhill (University of Virginia)- “From your experience, how easy do you think it is to move between departments within a large company?”
 
“A lot of companies say it’s easy to move between positions, and we as a company try to practice that. I think the best thing to do when you go into a new company is to be up front and say, ‘I’m not sure this is where I’m going to be long term.’ You can go in and say ‘I’ll give everything I’ve got to merchandising right now, but I have a little bit of an interest in marketing.’ If you’re honest about that, and you show them that you can think towards the future, it will not only help you out in your career but it will signal curiosity. Some companies do what’s called a “round-robin” and let you switch from department to department so that you can learn sourcing, marketing, sales, P&L, and much more. It all depends on the company you choose, and I recommend discussing that upfront.”

Top Takeaways
Some of our scholars shared with us what they found most meaningful or memorable about Karen’s presentation. Take a look!
 
Bryn Gorberg (Marist College)- “You don’t have to start in the industry to end up in it.”
 
Meghan Wallace (Oklahoma State University)- “Prior to now I didn’t realize just how many brands VF Corp. owns besides Nautica. I enjoyed learning about the scope of the company.”
 
Emma Gage (Marist College)- “I really liked hearing the progression of her journey from being the only woman working in menswear at the beginning of her career. A lot of people don’t recognize that a woman can be in charge of a company and still ‘have it all.’ If you put in the work and time management, you really can have it all, and Karen showed that today.”

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Rachel Feller

Breakfast with the Boss: Mary Ann Shannon, Senior Vice President of Sales at Levi Strauss & Co.

The important topic of sustainability took center stage at today’s “Breakfast with the Boss,” featuring Mary Ann Shannon, Senior Vice President of Sales at Levi Strauss & Co. We were very fortunate to have an open discussion with Mary Ann—not only did our scholars ask her questions about her journey and the company, but Mary Ann also had some of her own interesting questions for them. Take a look! 

About Levi Strauss & Co.
Levi Strauss & Co. is one of the world's largest brand-name apparel companies and a global leader in jeanswear. The company designs, markets and sells jeans, casual wear and related accessories for men, women and children under the Levi's®, Dockers®, Signature by Levi Strauss & Co.™, and Denizen® brands. Its products are sold in more than 110 countries worldwide through a combination of chain retailers, department stores, online sites, and a global footprint of approximately 2,700 retail stores and shop-in-shops.
 
With a long history of value integrity, profits through principles and environmental awareness, Levi Strauss & Co. strives not only to make fashionable, durable products, but also focuses on pioneering reforms in the apparel industry. Levi Strauss & Co. is famously known for integrating factories a decade before the law required it to, currently piloting programs such as Improving Worker Well-being and other industry-leading sustainability activities. Notably, innovations like the Water<Less process help reduce the water consumed in the manufacturing process of a pair of jeans. Additionally, the Levi’s® and Dockers® brands include information on product care tags to encourage the consumer to use less water and energy once the garment is in their care. 

The Boss’ Journey: Steps to Success
Mary Ann explained to our scholars that she went into the fashion industry thinking she would have one experience, and that experience turned out to be a bit different. After growing up in Kansas City and attending a local college, Mary Ann decided that her part-time job working in specialty store locally was what truly excited her, and decided to pick up work in the business full-time, soon being promoted to store manager and regional manager at a very young age. While she loved everything about the business and began to demonstrate her thirst for knowledge and willingness to take on hard work, Mary Ann came to realize that there was a limitation to how much she could grow and contribute within a small family-owned business. Eventually, she entered Macy’s Midwest Executive Training Program, where she went through formalized training, started as an assistant buyer and gained invaluable experience with both design and operations within the business. It was at this point that Mary Ann realized just how crucial the operational side of the fashion industry is, first being exposed to all of the financial implications that a company faces. She took this knowledge with her as she was promoted within Macy’s to sales manager, and then went on to become a women’s sportswear buyer at Marshall Field’s in Chicago. Next, Mary Ann moved to Spiegel, where she remained for almost 12 years as Divisional Merchandise Manager. She then joined The Limited as a Divisional Merchandiser for women’s bottoms, and then developed an apparel audience for QVC as the Director of Merchandising. Finally, Mary Ann was offered an opportunity at Levi Strauss & Co., where she is now responsible for all women’s sales accounts in the country.

"I was fortunate to have some great mentors, and my role in that process was being open to feedback," Mary Ann explained. "I would highly encourage all of you to think about that—there’s truly no better gift a boss can give you than some good feedback. And when you all become bosses someday, learn how to give that feedback in return.”

Words of Wisdom: Critical Skills
Mary Ann touched on a number of important skills that would serve our scholars well, regardless of what part of the fashion business they end up leaning towards.

• Communication. According to Mary Ann, “it’s as much about what you say and how you present yourself as it is to listen. And I mean listening to truly hear what the other person has to say, not simply waiting until someone finishes talking to speak yourself.” 
• Read your Audience. Whether you’re presenting a design idea, a sales plan or a marketing pitch, really knowing to whom you are selling is crucial. Be aware not only of what you want to say, but also what your audience needs from you. There will inevitably be dissension—be altruistic, but hold your own. 
• Facts, Facts, Facts.  “The fun part about this business is that it’s comprised of both art and science. There’s a great deal of respect for the design part, but whether you’re on the creative side or the operating side, the facts need to be there.” Always ask “Why?” 
• Ability to Influence. Coupling together communication, willingness to listen and facts to support your ideas will give you a power base to enter discussions and influence not just those who sit above you, but those who work next to you as well. 

Q&A
Q: Madeline Hanley (Indiana University)- “Throughout your career, how did you continue to make the transition in and out of operational work?”
 
A: “What I think is important is that I didn’t initially see myself as an operator, but it came through in my work—Rather than consciously choosing to make the transition, I would be recognized for my operational contribution. I was aware that I wasn’t as creative as many others, and I’d talk to my boss about how to develop an eye for design and gain more exposure to things that don’t come instinctively. As an operator, having that creative inspiration is crucial because I need to understand when trends come and go and when a product’s lifestyle is going to peak in order to drive profitability. Having both a right- and left-brain is really important, but typically people only really excel in one side and need to develop the other. One of the best pieces of advice I ever received was to raise your awareness [on subjects you know less about] and self-reflect.”
 
Q: Emma Gage (Marist College)- “Levi Strauss & Co. is clearly a very ethically run company, and sustainable practices run within the company’s DNA. That being said, the customer really drives the industry. It’s one thing to be able to run an ethical company and influence your employees, but from my understanding, the major change can only truly happen when the customer shows a major shift in desiring and responding to ethics and sustainability. How do you make a connection between the company and the consumer being the driving force?”
 
A: “Sustainability has been important to this company for many years. We also established Terms of Engagement nearly 25 years ago – a comprehensive workplace code of conduct for our suppliers that set standards covering everything from wages to discrimination to health and safety. We made the choice, and we took a stand when it wasn’t popular, but we’re a company that believes in doing the hard right thing instead of the easier wrong.”

Q: Mary Ann Shannon- “What motivates you when you select a brand? Does sustainability influence your decision when you purchase?”
 
Meghan Floyd (YMA FSF)- “In New York it can be hard because trends are coming and going, so people focus on fast fashion. Everyone loves a nice, well-made product, but that can sometimes take a backseat.”
 
Emma Gage (Marist College)- “I never used to really look at garment tags and question where products really come from. Recently, I was lucky enough to be able to take part in a conference raising awareness about philanthropy, and I realized it was time to give back to fashion. Sustainability really stood out to me as important…I now look at where clothes are made, which is a relatively good indicator of how ethical the sourcing is. It’s about finding a balance, dedicating your time, and being willing to ask the questions and doing the hard work, but it’s not always so easy.”
 
Mary Ann Shannon- “We like to say that we are a company that operates through a profits through principles philosophy. You can work towards a better world and uphold your values, but in the end, there will always be certain implications. But always think, ‘how can I be an advocate for social change?’
 
Q: Mary Ann Shannon- “What influences you from a marketing standpoint?”
 
Lauren Smyzcek (University of Wisconsin-Madison)- “What’s really important to me is that a product has a story. My friends and I find ourselves shifting from needing 10 pairs of trendy jeans to needing 2-3 pairs of really nice ones that come from a more conscious buyer mentality. If you ask me about my shirt, I want to be able to tell you the story behind it. I don’t always live that way—I think it’s more of an aspirational consumer mentality, but authenticity is something I aspire to.”
 
Mariel Bolger (University of Wisconsin-Madison)- “I would definitely be willing to [click on a video to learn more about a brand on its’ website]. I would want to learn about the company ethically and sustainability-wise, but I also want to know if what I’m wearing promotes and fits who I am as an individual.”
 
Mary Ann Shannon- “[Buying clothing is] a really personal experience. With your generation, having some sort of connectivity beyond just the aesthetic is really important. How brands behave can and does influence your purchase. Status is becoming less about money, and more about the experience.”
 
Thank you so much to Mary Ann Shannon for engaging our scholars in a thought-provoking, meaningful discussion this morning, and for sharing her own journey and advice.

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Rachel Feller

Breakfast with the Boss: Lisa Panattoni, President of Merchandising at Ross Dress for Less

This morning the scholars got their first taste of off-price retail over breakfast with Lisa Panattoni, President of Merchandising at Ross Stores, Inc. After a few weeks dabbling in the spheres of wholesale and private label, getting an inside view of the fast-paced off-price retail world was both refreshing and exciting. The scholars enjoyed a casual conversation with Lisa—they learned a bit more about Lisa’s day-to-day work experience, and had the valuable opportunity to ask Lisa all kinds of questions, ranging from personal preferences to corporate advice. Here’s a peek at the dialogue between Lisa and our scholars this morning! 

About Ross Stores, Inc.
Ross Stores, Inc. is a leader in delivering fashionable trends to the everyday consumer since 1982. America’s largest off-price retail chain, Ross Dress for Less, offers in-season, name brand and designer apparel, accessories, footwear and home products at discounts of up to sixty percent off of department and specialty store prices. Over the past thirty years, Ross has grown from a small chain to nearly 1,300 stores in 33 states.

The Boss’ Journey: Steps to Success
Lisa’s entrance into the fashion world came as a surprise when, while holding a part time job at a ski and tennis store in college, she was offered a job to fill in as the buyer and got her first taste of being a merchant. She described this shift as “not a planned or strategic move, but something that’s been perfect for [her].” Soon realizing her love of retail, Lisa’s wishes to move to a larger company were granted when she entered Weinstock’s department store training program in Sacramento, California. After gaining almost six years of traditional retail experience there, Lisa moved East to join Marshall’s Marmaxx Home Store as a buyer, and then went on to become SVP of Merchandising and Marketing for the TJX HomeGoods division.  It was at Marshall’s that she first developed her passion for off-price retail.
 
In 2005, Lisa joined Ross Stores, Inc. as SVP and General Merchandise Manager of Ross Home. After being promoted to Executive Vice President and Group Executive Vice President, Lisa earned her current title as President of Merchandising at Ross Dress for Less.  Her everyday job consists of beyond-the-moment tasks including strategic planning for the future, both months away and in the long range. When asked what drew her to off-price buying, Lisa noted that she finds the act of “toggling between many different times and seasons” especially rewarding. “I like it because there’s just a different speed and immediacy to it,” she explained. “There’s an immediate, connect-the-dots understanding of what worked and what didn't, and a focus on how we can learn from and make decisions based on past mistakes.”  Additional aspects of Lisa’s responsibility at Ross include human resources, where she coaches and develops her team, as well as managing specific product strategies, particularly around vendor relationships. As she shared with us, “your ability to build relationships and figure out how to have a partnership with your vendor base is really what makes you successful.” 

“The best job to have is being a buyer,” Lisa explained from experience, because it’s “where you get closest to product and merchandise and really generate a love for it.”

Q&A
It was such a fabulous opportunity to be able to ask Lisa for her thoughts on many different topics; both questions about her personal journey and concerns or ideas we have about our own futures. Below is just some of the helpful advice Lisa provided.
 
Q: Ruby Ghastin (University of California, Berkeley)- What do you find most difficult about your job?
 
A: “I’d say our biggest challenge is feeding the amount of talent that we need. Recruiting and filling jobs with people that are a cultural fit to our company proves harder than it seems. A lot of people have the skill set or intellect to do the job well, but all the pieces have to fit together…they have to be a cultural fit and a good team player. Those are hard qualities to pull together into one package. We especially love our internship program because if we can bring people in early and watch them grow up in the company, it makes for a pretty successful employee formula.”
 
Q: Emma Gage (Marist College)- What do you look for when you hire?
 
A: “I want somebody that’s curious. Whatever you’re doing, whether it’s in design or in retail, a level of intellectual curiosity gets you a long way. What’s going on in the world? What’s happening on TV/in fashion? And how does that apply to me? Being able to look at things beyond the obvious is crucial.  You also have to be a good team player and a good collaborator. And it sounds silly, but you’ve got to be nice! Being nice, professional, respectful are qualities that we value. Of course it’s important to locate strategic, analytical, numerically sound individuals. But it’s really about those other less obvious qualities that make someone successful.
 
Q: Ruby Ghastin (University of California, Berkeley)- Since you’re getting product from so many companies, do you find it hard to plan for what’s coming next?
 
A: “In off-price retail you have to live in the gray. We always know that some pieces are a given and can plan those, and then we have to use our best guess about what we know from the market to plan our next moves. We think about current business…for instance, it was a really cold winter and there’s not going to be much outerwear out there, so we need to buy more outerwear and get ahead of that. So, while it’s not planned, it’s thoughtful. And of course we make mistakes.”
 
Q: Katie Class (University of Missouri)- “How do you go about maintaining a work-life balance?”
 
A: “It’s a very difficult thing to do, and as you grow and your lives evolve, you will have kids, families, and outside interests. Any job, and particularly this job in merchandising, is intense and requires time and commitment. That being said, you want to look for a company that understands and appreciates a level of balance, because a lack of balance can only be sustained for so long. I really try to be able to separate work and what I do personally…to be able to step away is important. You do have to make it a priority to not get too consumed with work, because you’re going to be a lot better with work if you have balance on the other side.”

Q: Grace Dusek (Texas A&M University)- “Do you have any interview tips?”
 
A: “The first thing is always to do your homework. If you come in prepared with knowledge about company and the people you interview with, it goes a long way. In fact, you’d be surprised how few people do that. I’m not necessarily looking for a specific answer to my question, but I’m looking to see candidates’ thought processes. It’s very easy to have a “packaged” answer…I’m looking for someone with a level of transparency, where I feel like I got to know and learn something about them. Someone who is self-aware, in touch with things that they need to work on, honest and transparent. Be yourself, be authentic…that’s what people are really looking for in the interview.”
 
Q: Katie Class (University of Missouri)- “Now that you’ve been in the company for a while, how would you know going into a company that it’s the right fit? What do you look for?”
 
A: “Great question! A mentor once said to me, ‘when thinking about making a big decision, think about the 3 C’s.’ It really resonated with me. Culture, it has to be a place that you like and where you respect the people, where you feel like you belong and there’s a fit. Challenge, you want to continue to evolve, grow and develop, never be bored. And you want to be Compensated. If you can put those 3 together, you’ve landed on the right combination. Ross really delivered on that, and I give that advice to anyone who’s considering changing a job. It’s a risk, but follow your gut and you’ll generally be right, and if not, you’ll regroup.”
 
Q: Emma Gage (Marist College)- “In your own words, what would you describe success to be, and failure to be?”
 
A: “I think success is if you’re happy. It’s just as simple as that. That means both personally and professionally, but at the end of the day that’s what you go home with and what you live with. And failure…I would say failure is regret. I wouldn’t want to wake up one day and have done something longer than I would have wanted to and was unhappy, or regret that I should have made a move that I didn’t.”
 
A huge "thank you" to Lisa for taking the time out of her day to converse with our scholars and for providing so much support and generosity. 

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Rachel Feller

Lunch with a Leader: Heather Thomson, Founder & CCO of Yummie

Fashion designer, stylist, philanthropist, and leading cast member on Bravo TV’s Real Housewives of New York City, Heather Thomson is Founder and CCO of the Yummie by Heather Thomson fashion brand.  What started off as a “selfish initiative” for a new mom and consumer frustrated with the lack of options in the shapewear department quickly transformed into a global brand that is revolutionizing the shapewear industry.   With the launch of a new loungewear collection just around the corner, Heather Thomson sat down with YMA FSF scholars to talk entrepreneurship, taking risks, philanthropy, and of course, a little Real Housewives. 

Building the Brand: Passion with Purpose 
After the birth of her first child, Heather Thomson, like many new moms, struggled to lose stubborn baby weight.   Looking for a quick boost of confidence, she decided to take a trip to the shapewear department, but what she found there was less than inspiring - tight, uncomfortable pieces that needed be hidden beneath layers of clothing. Frustrated by the lack of options available, Heather returned home to take matters — and scissors — into her own hands.  Falling back on her more than 15 years of experience in design, working as the founding Design Director for the Sean “Diddy” Combs line, and with celebrities like Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez on the launch of their labels, Heather walked to her closet, grabbed a jumpsuit, and cut out the middle section, sewing a panel in its place.  Thus, the patented 3-panel shaping tank top, and a whole new way of looking at shapewear, was born.  

Founded in 2008, the Yummie by Heather Thomson brand launched with a mission to help women look and feel their best.  With an innovative design and vision to create shapewear pieces that could be incorporated into every day looks, Heather crafted pieces that offered sculpting support in the midsection, and non-shaping in the bust and hips, so women could wear their shapewear with an outfit, under blazer or blouse.  This was something that had never been done before.  Not surprisingly, Oprah quickly picked up the Yummie sculpting tank as one of her “Favorite Things” which helped catapult the brand overnight.  Since then, the company has expanded its product line into figure-flattering, functional collections — from intimates, to ready-to-wear, to denim — all designed to give women that extra boost of confidence. With twelve different patents in place securing the future of the brand, this year, Yummie is excited for its newest category launch, loungewear. 

On finding the right career path, Heather advised scholars to "take time to slow down and calm down...really listen to yourself.  Ask yourselves the questions, the answers are all there."   

"Heatherisms" - Words of Wisdom 
As an entrepreneur and business woman, Heather offered some wonderful advice, or “Heatherisms” as she likes to say, to our scholars who share her entrepreneurial spirit.  

Take Risks, Be Willing to Fail
Becoming an entrepreneur, you are alone in the beginning. You need to have confidence in your idea and vision.  If you don’t believe in yourself, who else is going to support you on your journey? Bottom line: “Take risks and know that you’re going to fail.  Mistakes are great because you learn from them.” 

Fail Fast
“When you fail, fail fast.  It’s only a mistake if you make it twice, if you make it once, it’s a lesson.”

Love What You Do
“You are going to be best at the things you are passionate about.  It’s only work if you’d rather be somewhere else.”

Know How to Build your Team
"Fill the holes of your own weaknesses with strengths of others. Know what you’re good at, and what you’re bad at, and build your team [around that]."

Never Give Up, Always Give Back
Passion with purpose drives entrepreneurial success.  It’s the hard work, long hours, strategic execution and relentless dedication to your vision that will help you to achieve your goals.  And once you do achieve success, you have an equally, if not more important, responsibility to give back in some capacity through philanthropy.  As Heather says, “Don’t show up to the table unless you’re charitable.”

Heather is deeply involved with the New York Organ Donor Network.  This cause is near and dear to her heart as her son, Jax, received a liver transplant as a baby.  Serving as an active board member of the Kellner Liver Foundation, Heather is committed to helping children receive lifesaving medical treatment.  

Scholars' Q&A
Q: “What was your biggest transition from having a supervisor (Sean “Diddy” Combs) to becoming your own boss?” - Diane Dickey, Indiana University

A: Responsibility.  Now, I have a responsibility to the people I hire, who have lives and families of their own.  When you have a staff of people counting on your for their jobs, that’s a big burden to bear.  But, I grab on to it, and build a strong team around me.  Hierarchies are important in business for organizational reasons, but teams win. 

Q: “How did you get involved with the Real Housewives Franchise?  Why don’t you choose to feature you business as prominently as some of the other women?” - Nicole Cember, Cornell University 

A: When the phone call came to my desk, I was thinking [absolutely not].  Then, of course, the marketing side of my brain kicked in.  I created lists to weigh the pros and cons, and the cons paled in comparison to what I could do with the pros, especially with regard to raising awareness for important matters, like my philanthropic work.  

Opportunity comes in all different shapes and forms. I wanted to use the TV show as a platform to introduce and promote Yummie, but I never wanted to force the brand.  That’s why you’ll  never see me pushing product on you during the show. 

Q: "How do you make sure you’re always listening and responding to your company’s customer needs?" - Shaina Levin, Savannah College

A: It’s about engaging with customers through reviews, social media, and actively listening to the consumers’ wants and needs.  We need to listen to the front-facing consumer, but we also have to be cognizant of the world around us. I have always had a guttural instinct about what we should be designing.  There are things I know intuitively that I put into the brand.  

It’s really about finding balance; We’re all bio-individual, nobody reacts to things the same way.  If you look at the different body shapes and lives people are living, we’re all different!  But that’s what inspires me, creating products that help women feel more confident and love what they see in the mirror. 

Q: “What advice do you have on building a brand?” - Shota Adamia, Brandeis University

A: You have to look at the market and find the holes.  It’s all about innovation.  In fashion, department stores set trends, but the buyers also set trends.  The key is to distinguish your brand and product from the competition.  Don’t show the buyers the same things everyone else is showing them.  If [Yummie] is showing a bra, you know that bra is different.  It can be in construction, fabrication, undercutting the market price — something that stands out from the rest.  
 

A special thanks to Heather for taking the time to sit with our scholars over Lunch with the Boss.  Stay tuned for our next update!

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Meghan Floyd

Breakfast with the Boss: Michael Mombello, SVP of Design and Product Development for Neckwear at PVH

Despite being “tied” up at their various internships around the city, the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund scholars took time out of their mornings to hear from inspirational leader and neckwear specialist Michael Mombello (pun intended). Over breakfast, Michael shared with us the many steps along his journey to his current position as Senior Vice President of Design and Product Development for Neckwear at PVH. We were fortunate enough to get a tour of the men’s neckwear showroom, taking in an array of beautiful ties in more patterns, fabrics and colors than we could have imagined. With ties ranging from the simple and classic lines and deep blues of the Indigo collection (inspired by Michael’s trip to Copenhagen and Stockholm) to the modern paisleys and narrowly shaped silhouettes featured in more recent collections, each of our scholars walked away inspired by something different. Here are some of the highlights! 

About PVH
PVH Corporation, with a heritage of over 130 years, is currently the second largest apparel company in the world.  The company excels in growing global brands, marketing them in the United States and internationally. PVH owns a diversified portfolio of noteworthy brands including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Van Heusen and IZOD. Additionally, PVH has the license for brands such as Ted Baker, Todd Snyder, Michael Kors, Nautica, Kenneth Cole Reaction and Geoffrey Beene. Its products are distributed to a range of popular department stores, as well as to hundreds of outlet locations. Taking special care to maintain the integrity and core values of each brand in the growth and expansion process, PVH has emerged as a leader domestically and globally. Between its owned brands, licensed brands and private label brands, PVH accounts for greater than sixty percent of the neckwear market share in the United States.

The Boss’ Journey: Steps to Success
Michael graduated form Connecticut College in 1983 with a major in English and a minor in Art History. He always thought he would go into advertising, publishing or marketing, even considering at one point doing admissions work at a boarding school. “I didn’t know I was going to end up in this business at all,” Michael explained. The concept of “not knowing” at the beginning is one we have heard multiple bosses share this summer, and one that Michael made the point of stressing to our scholars. “Just start somewhere,” he suggested. “It doesn’t have to be the perfect job.” This opportunity came for Michael when Macy’s came to his college campus with Bloomingdale’s to look for “thinkers, writers and communicators.” Although not initially planning on interviewing, Michael filled in the slot of a friend who unexpectedly fell ill right before her interview, and from there it was all fate. He earned a spot in Macy’s executive training program where he began as a dress shirt assistant buyer, moved on to become a floor manager, and gained the experience of working for a large retail company. This “sink or swim” opportunity, as Michael described it, really “crystallized why [he was] in the business—it’s all about customer feedback and the relationship with the consumer.” This led naturally to his next role as a store manager and buyer at Polo Ralph Lauren.
 
After five years’ work with Polo, Michael felt it was time for something new, and landed the position of Men’s Merchandise Director of retail at J. Crew. He especially enjoyed the direct product-to-consumer experience, traveling to style outlets in Hong Kong and expanding J. Crew’s accessories, tailored clothes and footwear. Michael stayed with J. Crew for over five years, but soon “got itchy to give up merchandising and cross over into design.” Listening to his gut, and to his boss who suggested that he try neckwear, Michael moved back to the Ralph Lauren family as Design Director for Chaps, and then became Design Director of Men’s Tailored Clothing at Tommy Hilfiger. He stayed with for thirteen years, finally holding the position of SVP of Design. While he started out with ties and neckwear, Michael moved around between golf, men’s tailored clothing, men’s sportswear and even women’s accessories, embracing the ever-changing dynamic of the company. Today, Michael holds the title of Senior Vice President of Design and Product Development for Neckwear at PVH. Rather than focusing on many product categories within one brand, he now enjoys focusing solely on neckwear and working with many brands and stores.

"Words of Wisdom"

• Find a place where you can make a difference. Sometimes in the beginning of your career it’s important to get yourself established with larger, more structured brands, but later on make sure you find a job where you feel you are most valuable. 
• There’s no “I” in team. Learn how to collaborate with others, even in a more rigid company structure where doing so can be difficult. 
• Work hard now. If you work as hard as you can work in your current position, doors will open to guide you towards the next step on your journey. 
• Do what feels right. Figure out what feels best to you in this specific moment; listen to your gut. 
• Be a sponge. Soak up every bit of knowledge you can. Raise your hand when you have a question and never be afraid to ask. 
• Cast your net wide. You may not know which way your career will turn next, but having a network to reach out to in times of need can make all the difference.

Michael showing scholars the "Indigo" collection, inspired by his trip to Copenhagen and Stockholm.

Q&A
Q: Shota Adamia (Brandeis University)- “For all of us who are very new to the business, it’s easy to get caught up in a routine role, and difficult to figure out what kind of team will provide you with the best experience for the future. What do you think are the best kinds of teams/work environments for us to be trying out at the beginning stages of our careers?”
 
A: “There isn’t one best team. There are endless options in terms of where you can start, and I have many friends in the industry that did complete turnarounds, moving from women’s to men’s, small environment to corporate. I love that I started in merchandising, because I feel like I have developed a left-side right-side brain. In merchandising, you have to know how to appeal to the customer, but you also have to keep in mind that a young Southerner might not want the same product as an older man in the North. You also have to understand the financial implications of your decisions and how they affect sales. While there isn’t one ‘right’ team, sales is a great place to start.”
 
Q: Megan Blissick (University of Delaware)- “It seems like a lot of your opportunities were self-created. When in a company setting, how do you know when it’s appropriate to ask for a different position, for a raise, or to move elsewhere?”
 
A: “You’ll know—you’ll just feel it. I always feel like it’s equivalent to shopping for houses with my wife…finally you walk into that one living room and just know that’s the one for you. You all have the luxury of something [my generation] didn’t have—job postings online. You have the ability to search quickly for opportunities that might pique your interest. Currently in the industry there’s a trend of test-driving designers and creative talent. Many times a company will want to see if it’s a good fit at first, but what starts out as freelancing often turns into a full time position, and if you fit well with the team and perform well, even if there isn’t a position that fits you best, they might create one for you. Don’t get discouraged in the first rung of your job—you’ll progress, begin to take on more responsibility and make more money as you go along. I like to think that two years is always a good benchmark. If you know something isn’t right for you you’ll feel it right away, but if you’re hesitant, give yourself some time. Two years is a sufficient amount of time to assess ‘am I on the way up? Or am I sitting here in one place?’”
 
Q: Alicia Underhill (University of Virginia)- “What are the most important qualities to seek out when choosing a first time job?”
 
A: “Try to understand as best you can the job description—the actual ‘what is my day-to-day going to look like?’ Companies can’t always give you a sense of that right away, and even if they do, you may not know that half your time will be spent cutting tie swatches or putting boards together, but always try to have a clear understanding of what your main role will be. Also, who is on your team? Are you a person that wants structure, or do you want to be a startup maven? Ultimately, everybody has different needs. Some people have a situation where salary isn’t most important starting out, while others have to work 2-3 jobs—that can determine a lot in the beginning. Regardless, always cast your net wide.”

Top Takeaways
Some of our scholars shared with us what they found most meaningful or memorable about Michael’s presentation. Take a look!
 
Lizzy Schrantz (Oklahoma State University): "I found it interesting when he said, “know where you can make a difference.” It’s not something I had really considered as much before, but it's really important."
 
Madalyn Manzeck (University of Wisconsin-Madison): “I took away that hard work pays off. You’re not going to get to the top by not working hard. It may be difficult at first doing the grunt work instead of the fun stuff, but as Michael said, if you work hard at one job, you’ll find an opportunity somewhere else. That was really inspiring.”
 
Dvorah Elster (University of Wisconsin-Madison): “Hearing how important it is to learn about and experience all of the different aspects of the industry, and how beneficial that can be.”

Many thanks to Michael for his generosity, encouragement and inspiring words!

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Rachel Feller

Summer Kickoff Party!

The YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund hosted its annual Summer Kickoff Party on Tuesday, June 16th, 2015, at the Marriott Marquis in New York City.  In an evening that connected the best and brightest young YMA FSF scholars with some of the most influential leaders in the fashion industry, the SummerKickoff Party proved to be an exceptional networking event filled with excitement, enthusiasm and invaluable opportunity.    

As guests congregated in the Broadway Lounge overlooking Times Square, YMA FSF scholars, many of whom are in NYC for the first time fulfilling summer internships with prestigious fashion companies, were captivated by the spectacular views of the city.   Floor to ceiling glass windows lined the room and offered a unique perspective of the bustling city below, while bright lights from flashing billboards fueled the energy in the room.  

YMA FSF Scholars, Board members and executives conversing over hors d'oeuvres in the Broadway Lounge.

For the more than forty scholars who attended the event, the evening served as a wonderful chance to meet and reconnect with one another, conversing over shared experiences, new internships, career goals and aspirations.  As Grace Dusek noted, “After three weeks of settling into the city and my internship, it was fantastic to feel welcomed by the YMA FSF Board Members at the Summer Kickoff Event!  Snacking on hors d’oeuvres in the heart of Times Square, the evening was glamorous, yet intimate.  I enjoyed meeting new scholars and Board members, and cannot wait to continue fostering these new relationships.”

Beyond connecting with one another, scholars were afforded the opportunity to speak with leading executives from the fashion industry.  These individuals, who serve as mentors to the scholars, graciously dedicate their time towards helping our future leaders of fashion on their roads to success, developing their passions and honing their skills.  The accessibility of industry executives at the event, and overall caliber of individuals in the room, was nothing short of remarkable.  As Oliver Selby noted, “Attending these events and meetings enables me to connect with people in the industry, including our amazing Board members. I am in the process of looking for a job, and YMA FSF has given me the ability to forge long-standing relationships with the right people who are willing to help.  For me, the organization is a wonderful support system, one that wants to watch you grow and succeed as an individual in the field of fashion.  I am so grateful for everything YMA FSF has done.” 

The evening was a wonderful celebration of brilliant minds, creative spirits and unparalleled talent in the industry.  Scholar Shota Adamia agreed, stating, “I think that the passion and resourcefulness of all the mentors and Board members, in unison with the wildly talented and motivated group of scholars, created a space with unmatched, challenging and invigorating aura. It is a huge privilege and honor to be a part of the life-changing experience that the organization provides for its scholars, and I do hope that I can stay equally involved in the future by giving back.”  

We would like to thank all of the scholars, Board members, mentors and executives who joined us at our Summer Kickoff Party, you truly made the evening a night to remember.  We look forward to seeing you at our next networking event! 

Copyright © 2015 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund, All rights reserved.

Meghan Floyd