Fashion Scholarship Fund Hosts Accelerator Grant Pitch Night

On the evening of April 2nd, 2019, Fashion Scholarship Fund alumni, like myself, and Board members gathered in the SAP Innovation Lab at Manhattan's Hudson Yards to listen to four talented former scholarship winners pitch their businesses for the FSF Accelerator Grant kick-off. This event was held in “Shark Tank” style with four distinguished judges who lent their critique and expertise to the candidates.

The Fashion Scholarship Fund Accelerator Grant will give an FSF alumni-led seed and early stage startup $50,000 and mentorship from a team of industry experts. Requirements for eligibility: be a former FSF Scholarship recipient and in a leadership position at a startup in the fashion industry.

 

At the event on Tuesday, four of this year's applicants had 15 minutes to share their business models with the judging panel and receive their feedback. FSF Executive Director, Peter Arnold, opened the event and Mary Alice Stephenson led the panel. Judges, or the “pool of dolphins” as Mr. Arnold referred to them, included Anushka R. Salinas, Chief Revenue Officer for Rent the Runway, Laurel Pantin, Fashion Features Director at InStyle, Meghan Cross Breeden, Partner at Amplifyher Ventures, and Waris Ahluwalia, designer and CEO of House of Waris. All were more than willing to share their knowledge of the industry and made constructive suggestions to help the young entrepreneurs. 

 

The applicants presenting were impressive. It was clear that each one had committed to dedicating all of their efforts to the success of their start ups. Jameel Mohammed, a contestant who presented his brand KHIRY, and Madalyn Joy Manzeck of Madalyn Joy Designs shared that they were the sole employees of their businesses, handling everything from sourcing to marketing to sales and beyond. The challenges of running a start up on their own, in an industry like fashion, is quite a feat. These applicants have seen what it takes to make it, many taking second jobs to make their dreams a reality. They all shared their successes and challenges during the night, and were very clear about how the Accelerator Grant could help move their businesses forward.

 

Jameel Mohammed, a scholarship winner from both 2015 and 2018 started his luxury jewelry company inspired by the beauty, art, and culture of the African Diaspora in 2015. Each piece of his collection is priced between $180-$1,350 and made of sterling silver coated in 18k gold. As the sole employee of the brand, Mohammed shared of some of initial success that he worked to gain, such as having a spot on the Barney's floor in NYC, being featured in a number of magazines including Vogue and being worn by celebrities like Michelle Obama and Serena Williams. However, he is still struggling to gain more visibility even after these successes. Ahluwalia advised Mohammed to remain focused on his current product assortment before doing any expansion. While Mohammed expressed his desire for his products to be made in the United States in the future, the judges warned him of the expense that he might incur. Judges and audience members, including myself, were impressed by the high quality of his products. It was very evident that Jameel is extremely passionate about his brand and collection and had already put in a great deal of work to make his brand succeed and reach larger audiences. Jameel hopes to use the scholarship and mentoring to advance his operations within the business and share African culture with more of the world.

 

Francesca Skwark shared her women's ready-to-wear brand "Checka".  The athleisure loungewear collection features fun and spunky embroidery and printed phrases that empower women. Skwark is a 2008 scholarship winner from Iowa State, and she also shared of some of her struggles of being her own boss in the fashion industry. She started her first brand F.B.F (Fashion by Francesca) a few years after she graduated. However, she realized that it need some revamping in order to be the stable brand that she wanted it to be. Her current brand "Checka" took shape in 2016 after reevaluating some aspects of her business. Swark’s excitement about her brand was so evident and I was really blown away by how she has maintained such an impassioned spirit throughout the years of running her business. Francesca hires women in the Southern California area to do the embroidery and printing for her collection. Her clothes have made their way into hotels and gyms in California. During her presentation, Francesca noted how mentoring from industry professionals could really help her brand blossom if she won the grant.

 

Madalyn Joy Manzeck, a 2015 winner from the University of Wisconsin, also wowed the crowd with her brand Madelyn Joy Designs, a bespoke lingerie brand that she began in 2017, mainly targeting brides. Madalyn had a model display one of her designs, and I couldn’t believe the impeccable detail that went into each piece. Laurel Pantin saw Manzeck’s brand as having huge potential. As an editor and director, she sees many women who are unhappy with the selection of made-to-order lingerie, especially in plus sizes. Currently, Manzeck only works with women in Milwaukee. With the quality and price that Manzeck’s line offers, Pantin believes that there is a huge window of opportunity to reach more people who would “die to get their hands on” a bespoke piece. One of Madalyn’s goals is to expand her brand into ready-to-wear lingerie in order to reach more clientele, which the Accelerator Grant could surely help with.

 

Lastly, recent scholarship winner Nicholas Lee, a graduating senior at the Wharton School shared how his business, Arturo, could fill a big white space in the industry. He came up with the idea while he and his co-founder, Scott, were visiting local artisans in Italy. He realized that none of the shops they visited had an online platform to sell their products and he thought that there had to be a way for them to reach a larger audience. Thus began Arturo, an online platform for these master-craftsmen to have their products sold. Arturo takes care of all marketing, logistics, returns and more while the craftsmen abroad have to only continue making beautiful product. They currently have thirteen vendors in Italy and they are looking to expand to Japan and other parts of Europe to seek out other master craftsmen. I found Lee and his partner’s business extremely impressive, and many of the judges were quite positive in their feedback as well. Judge Meghan Breeden questioned some of the logistics aspects, as it can be quite expensive to ship product from Italy to other places in the world. Though Lee shared that they took part in the shipping and returning processes, anything that is returned is not shipped all the way back to Italy but is posted again to be sold. While they have a strong start to their business model going, the partners may have to work out how to differentiate themselves from the likes of Etsy and other similar online platforms.

 

I couldn’t say enough about the talent in the room on this night. Laurel Pantin said it best when she shared after the event that she was left totally inspired. The future of fashion is so bright because of these go-getter, young talents. The overarching feedback from the judges was to remain focused on each product or service that the applicants had pitched and to really listen to their customers. It will be extremely tough to narrow down the finalists, as this is just a preview of all the talent that the FSF has attracted for this grant. The FSF Accelerator Grant applications can be submitted until April 30th. The application can be found through the YMA FSF website at https://www.ymafsf.org/accelerator-grant. Finalists will be notified at the end of May, and the winner will be announced at the FSF Summer Kick-Off mid-June. I encourage any FSF alumni with self-startups in the fashion industry to apply for this grant and opportunity for incredible mentorship!

Written by: FSF Alum, Emma Brown

Fall 2018 Alumni Association Fall Panel: A Conversation On Sustainability

At this point, many fashion professionals are aware that the apparel industry is the second most polluting industry in the world after oil. Now the question is: how do we come together to make positive change in our industry, both for the good of our planet and to better target conscious consumers? On Thursday, September 20th, the YMA FSF Alumni Association gathered at the beautiful G-III Showroom to discuss this topic of sustainability alongside the most knowledgeable professionals in the industry.

We were fortunate to have Amy Hall (VP Social Consciousness at Eileen Fisher), Marissa Pagnani McGowan (GVP of Corporate Responsibility at PVH), Cara Smyth (Founder of GCNYC Fair Fashion Center), and Wendy Waugh (SVP Manufacturing and Sustainability at Theory) on the panel to discuss this important topic.

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With such diverse backgrounds, yet similar interests, we first asked our speakers: What is your definition of sustainability? Both Marissa’s definition of “rethinking and changing the way we do things in a world of finite resources” and Cara’s definition of “making responsible choices for both yourself and the planet” showcased the simplicity of what sustainability means, but also just how broad the topic is. Meanwhile, Amy took a four-faceted approach, defining it as “the ability to live within planetary boundaries, from a financial, environmental, social, and well-being perspective.” Wendy straightforwardly posed the question, “What are we doing as a company that is the right thing to do?”

There were a multitude of subjects that the professionals on our panel discussed regarding sustainability, with the following being the most in depth conversations:

A sustainable mindset must be integrated into every department

As Wendy put it, “You need passion within every area.” She later added, “We have to use the young, passionate people within organizations to make a change.” Cara agreed that the younger generation does tend to have more passion for sustainability because they have had “the privilege of a wealth of knowledge from a young age.”

Customers will buy products that are beautiful

Cara explained how many consumers say they care, but don’t actually change their habits. “A product has to be beautiful and joyful, then people will buy it.” Amy added, “Sustainability is really just icing on the cake for most consumers.” Firstly, attractive clothing and store experiences will get customers to buy product. Marissa explained that “innovative and sustainable store design is something that is very tangible for both media and consumers.”

We must rethink the way we do things to be both sustainable and profitable

Amy discussed how there is more than just the cradle-to-cradle method, in which we reuse clothing and textiles. There is also cradle-to-earth, which would be product that is “not just biodegradable, but actually nutritious for the earth.” Marissa praised the likes of Rent the Runway, noting that “Just rethinking the way you do things can enable ideas that are both sustainable and profitable.” Wendy agreed, stating that often we just need to “Be clever by using our negotiation skills to get reasonable prices on more sustainable textiles from manufacturers.”

Clearly, this was a discussion that could have gone on for hours and hours. But luckily, we have fashion professionals such as these women who are starting the conversation and making change every day within fashion corporations. As consumers and young professionals, we must understand that this positive change can take time, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible.

Written by: Rachel Brosman, FSF Scholarship Class of 2018 

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Summer Kick-Off

On June 14th, the Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) held its annual Summer Kick-Off at Global Brands Group. The Kick-Off, which included the announcement of the FSF Alumna who was awarded the first ever Alumni Dream Grant (ADG), was a huge success.

Back in June 2017, FSF announced the expansion of its portfolio of scholarships to include the Alumni Dream Grant. Overseeing the program is Marc Mastronardi, Macy’s Executive Vice President of Business Development, Innovation who noted, “All of us who care and are invested in the future of fashion need to continue to identify the next generation of leadership and give them the support they need to succeed.” Continuing the organization’s mission of identifying the best and brightest talent from its 64 partner colleges and universities for the future of the fashion industry, the Fashion Scholarship Fund Alumni Dream Grant chose to support the early stage start-up, Thistle & Spire, for further growth through mentorship from industry experts and an equity-free $50,000 grant.

ADG winner Lily Chen, FSF 2010 Scholarship Recipient and Fashion Institute of Technology graduate, was ecstatic to hear that she won the grant and is eager to use the funding and mentorship to further advance her company. When asked about her inspiration for Thistle & Spire, Lily articulated, “I will always love building, getting my hands dirty, and the grit of working on challenges to create something new.  Maggie and I created Thistle & Spire because we both saw the power in lingerie. As young women it helped us find confidence, not as something we purchase to wear for other people, but for ourselves.  We were also astounded how there were very expensive brands or cheaper mass market brands, but nothing in between. Thistle & Spire was inspired by the women in our lives. Women who knew what they want and built their own way.  Our brand name comes from the mix of floral and architectural lines in our designs. They represent the Thistle & spire woman. Thistle flowers were one of the few flowers that grew by our first office in Bushwick Brooklyn. They find a way to grow past restrictions, while a spire rises above in a landscape, always moving upward and seen by everyone.”

Lily also spoke about her company’s overall vision and growth. “It's been a lot of hard work, but thrilling to watch our company grow from a handful of wholesale accounts and a few online purchases to over 50 wholesale doors including Nordstrom, Blooomingdales, Revolve, and Shopbop.  We also have a booming direct to consumer online business. We love the community we have built with body positivity events. As someone who was not confident growing up, the brand allows me to help other women find their confidence through lingerie.  After all, there is nothing more unstoppable than an army of confident women.”

Co-Founder Maggie Bacon with Alumni Association directors Felicia Podberesky and Marlena Meyer

Co-Founder Maggie Bacon with Alumni Association directors Felicia Podberesky and Marlena Meyer

Among those who attended the kick-off were FSF Board of Governors, industry mentors, current scholars, and alumni. Guests enjoyed a live string quartet and an assortment of delicious Italian food and beverages.

 

Attendees of this event included Board of Governors such as Alibaba’s Lee McCabe, Randa’s David Katz and Heath Golden, Macy’s Marc Mastronardi, MMG’s Jeff Hellman, Nautica’s Electa Varnish, Glen Ellen Brown, Yehuda Shmidman, and former FSF Executive Director, Doug Evans.

Alumni Dream Grant Finalists

Alumni Dream Grant Finalists

Overall, the Kick-Off was the quintessential way to launch the summer events series and celebrate the newly crowned ADG winner. Current scholars and alumni got the opportunity to network with potential mentors and mingle with fashion industry leaders in a relaxed and uplifting setting.

Former FSF Executive Director Doug Evans

Former FSF Executive Director Doug Evans

Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I w…

Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I was also a top FSF scholarship winner for Merchandising & Marketing in 2018. Enjoy reading about the fun and engaging events we are hosting this summer for the 2018 scholars!

Breakfast with the Boss - Stanley Silverstein, President of International Development and Global Licensing at Perry Ellis International

Stanley Silverstein, President of International Development & Global Licensing at Perry Ellis International, spoke with scholars about his unique path into the fashion industry through law, his experiences working for both Warnaco and Perry Ellis, and the highs and lows of his career. He shared valuable advice for the scholars who aspire to have careers in fashion and explained that, although there is rarely a straight line to success in the industry, it is very attainable if you work hard and have a positive attitude.

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Stanley grew up in Ohio and attended Harvard Law School thinking that he would have a career in law. He moved to New York and moved from larger law firms to more boutique firms, but couldn’t quite find a place he enjoyed. He then relocated to Connecticut, thinking it was the New York law firms that were off-putting, but he realized eventually that he was not entirely interested in working as a law associate in general. He began to search for a new job and was then hired as an in-house lawyer for an apparel company in Connecticut. “I found that I really enjoyed the [fashion] industry. We worked with many brands, from Hathaway to Christian Dior and I got to learn the intricacies of the fashion business and understand its dynamics. I had quite a bit of responsibility and took it upon myself to be constantly curious”. He explained that he definitely worked through quite a bit of twists and turns but took advantage of them and maintained his work ethic and positivity. “The company went from being a 500 Million dollar company to a 2.5 Billion dollar company, and it was incredible to see the transformation. I maintained a leadership role and built out the brand platform in a dynamic way, opening new markets and new brands”.

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Stanley spent 29 years at Warnaco, Inc. but explained that he had three or four different careers within the company. “We rebuilt Warnaco around the Calvin Klein brand, expanding globally from 2003 to 2013. Then, PVH took an interest in what we were doing and wanted to integrate, so they bought Warnaco, and I helped work on the integration. However, after eight or nine months, I began to look for a new opportunity and met with the founder of Perry Ellis, which gave me the opportunity for the job I have now”. Stanley articulated that since he began working there, Perry Ellis added 111 new licenses. He now manages a group of people in licensing around the globe in locations such as Hong Kong, Europe, and Miami, who work on international and domestic licensing, as well as the company’s EMEA operations headquartered in London.

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Stanley shared some words of wisdom with the scholars. The first suggestion that he had for students was to work hard, but work smart, and to be thoughtful. “If you’re close to the hoop, stuff can happen. If you’re there and people can count on you, that’s important. It can lead to mentorship and new opportunities,” he explained. “You have to be willing to put yourself outside of your comfort zone and make yourself noticed, whether it is working at a fashion show or doing an internship”. The second suggestion that he had was to find the right balance of patience and impatience. “You may not get paid enough or properly recognized for your hard work at first, but if you continue to persevere and maintain an optimistic attitude, you will eventually leverage your passions and find your place in the industry”.

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Stanley also stressed how important the FSF organization is as a resource for scholars. “Getting that first job is always the hardest, and FSF has an immense network of contacts from the companies that scholars aspire to work for,” he said. “All of these companies have so much respect for the scholars and FSF serves as the go-to development office for recruiters.” Although scholars need to have their own drive and proactivity, FSF can really help them out in terms of putting their resume in the right hands, or informing them of what jobs and internships are hiring at any given moment. Stanley also discussed other ways to use one’s network to find an internship or job. “You can definitely reach out to friends and colleagues, but make sure you position yourself in a thoughtful/professional way,” he explained. ‘You can ask something like ‘I heard your company was looking for a designer’ rather than just meeting up without a specific idea in mind.” He also mentioned that schools usually have some sort of job bank or career services network that scholars can also tap into. One scholar asked, “I have a background in fashion design, but I changed career paths a little while ago and now I work in technology. However, I want to get back into fashion. How can I bridge the gap?” Stanley replied by saying that fashion and technology are becoming increasingly integrated and that the world will see more and more things like wearable tech in the future. He told the scholar to explore her options with the Amazons, Googles, etc. of the world, and to tap into her resources.

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Lastly, Stanley took the scholars to the showroom downstairs and showcased the new Perry Ellis 2019 collection, which included water and stain resistant dress shirts and suits. They were intrigued to see what Perry Ellis had in store for the future and were thankful that they got to see a sneak peek. The scholars left the breakfast feeling inspired and uplifted by Stanley’s story and multitudinous words of wisdom.

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Stanley Silverstein’s Best Tips from the Boss:

Put yourself near the hoop.

A positive demeanor and a friendly smile goes a long way.

Keep your options open, you never know where you may find your niche.

Maintain your network and don’t be afraid to reach out to them.

Find the right balance of patience and impatience.

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Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I was also a top FSF scholarship winner for Merchandising & Marketing in 2018. Enjoy reading about the fun and engaging events we are hosting this summer for the 2018 scholars!

Breakfast with the Boss - Chris Kolbe, SVP of Global Design and Trend at Kohl's

Chris Kolbe, SVP of Global Design and Trend at Kohl’s, told his career story and discussed the importance of mentorship, opportunities in the industry, the integration of technology and fashion, and the rise of globalization with scholars. He shared his inspiring and untraditional path into design starting as an employee at his father’s sporting goods store at the age of twelve. Chris navigated his career through buying, planning, merchandising, and entrepreneurship positions before he reached his current position as a leader in design. A few of his recent positions prior to SVP at Kohl’s included being the President of Original Penguin, President & Chief Merchant Officer of Lucky Brand Jeans, and Brand President at Land’s End.

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Chris’ career wasn’t always easy, however, he articulated that, “Although there are cycles in business, you learn the most when things are tough. I learned more in the two years during and after the 2008 recession than I did in the six good years that happened prior”. He explained that the adversity and uncertainty that the industry underwent in these years helped shape his perspective and made him even more tough and persistent. Chris also shared a few important points regarding selectin jobs and anticipating career changes. “Don’t look for immediate gain as the main asset of a new job. Ask yourself about what you could potentially learn from the experience, who you could meet, and what the culture of the workplace would be” he explained.

One scholar asked, “Have you had a specific end goal for your career? How did you decide when it was time to move on to a new position?” “I’m driven by potential,” Chris replied, “I value opportunity more than title, and I try to visualize how A can lead to B to C. The best thing to do is to think two steps ahead and to foresee how a current experience could help you achieve a future goal.” He discussed career management and stressed the importance of strategically planning your career steps as well as establishing long-term ambitions.

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Another scholar inquired, “What were the differences in work environments between all of the places you worked?” “Oh, they were all so different,” he replied, “There were big differences in company culture, corporate values, and general structure.” He explained that he learned to value companies that are inherently good- good to their people, good to the planet, and good to overseas laborers. He told scholars that he values that goodness more than glamour and prestige.

A third scholar asked, “What advice do you have regarding mentorship? When did you come in contact with your first mentor?” Chris replied, “I actually didn’t have a mentor for a while; I read a lot and was a self-starter. But I would definitely recommend seeking a mentor early. However, no one is going to tap you on the shoulder unless you reach out to them, because what you don’t ask you don’t get.” He added that he manages about 250 artists and designers, and ensures that they all receive some degree of mentorship.

Lastly, the conversation shifted to the impact of artificial intelligence and globalization in the fashion industry. “The world has become increasingly borderless; no one has full exclusion anymore because consumers demand speed, quality, and lower cost, which can only be achieved when many different people collaborate.” “However,” he added, “Labor costs are also rising, so this is where automation will come into play. I can see automation completely replacing human labor in factories, so it will be interesting to see how that shapes the industry in the future.”

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Chris Kolbe’s Best Tips from the Boss:

Good merchants are opportunists.

Listen to the customer.

The [fashion] business is always changing.

There is no straight line to success in fashion.

Be ready to roll up your sleeves and learn hands-on.

Look into company culture before choosing a position.

Change will happen two times faster in the next 10 years as it has in the last 10.

Don’t prioritize immediate gain.

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Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I was also a top FSF scholarship winner for Merchandising & Marketing in 2018. Enjoy reading about the fun and engaging events we are hosting this summer for the 2018 scholars!

Breakfast with the Boss - Debra Malbin, Founder of Debra Malbin Associates

Debra Malbin has had both a unique and immensely successful career in the fashion industry. Upon graduating from FSF member school, the University of Florida, with a degree in Marketing, she started working for a media agency in New York. At first, like many graduates, she did not find her first job to be aligned with her true passions, therefore, on a whim, Debra applied for a seasonal role at Bloomingdale’s and was hired. She remained with the company for eight years, and was promoted from a position as an assistant buyer, to department manager, to a buyer for multiple divisions in both home and menswear. As her eighth year rolled in, she decided to move to a wholesale position at Jhane Barnes which was owned by Oxford Industries. There, she went from being a VP of sales to becoming a president of multiple divisions, both positions in which she found herself truly thriving because of her natural propensity for oversight, teamwork, and larger-scale decision making. Her final career move happened when she started her own executive recruiting business, Debra Malbin Associates, which blended all of her unique talents and interests. DMA is a small boutique search firm that specializes in recruiting middle to senior management executives.

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Firstly, Debra shared with the scholars the different opportunities that are available for graduates, and what the various jobs in the industry entail. “There are so many different jobs in fashion,” Debra expressed, “Students usually aspire to go into buying or marketing, but they have never even been exposed to licensing or strategy”. She further explained that a job in licensing has the potential to blend the diverse interests, such as sales, product, and interpersonal communication skills, of someone who is not blatantly set on one thing. “Your first job(s) are a sort of elimination process; the search is like a pyramid, where you start with a broader selection and then it gets more and more narrow as you check off what you dislike”, Debra explained.

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Next, Debra went in-depth on both good and bad interviewing techniques, from her point of view as someone who has had extensive experience with recruiting. “You never get a second chance at a first impression,” Debra stressed, “After that one second, it will be difficult to sway someone into thinking of you otherwise, so look presentable, have a firm handshake, and appear confident. If you can, choose the middle seat instead of a seat to the far right or far left”. Alyssa Zinola, events and social media manager for FSF, added that a good idea is to dress professionally, even for a phone interview. “When you are dressed up, you are more likely to speak professionally and envision yourself in an interview setting rather than speaking as if you are on the phone with a friend”, she explained.

 

Lastly, Debra talked the scholars through several tips regarding their resumes and cover letters. “How long should a cover letter be?” One scholar asked, “I’ve heard opposing perspectives on whether they should be a full page or just one paragraph”. Debra answered by explaining that, since many people in the fashion industry are both visual and often pressed for time, they appreciate brevity and concision. “A cover letter should be two paragraphs,” She articulated, “One paragraph which explains who you are and what your skills are, and another which explains why you want to work for this particular company and why the position matches your skills and qualifications”. Debra also stressed the importance of being honest on your resume, as well as knowing the dates, locations, and key learning points of the jobs listed. “I’m surprised at how many people can’t tell me the dates of when they held certain positions,” she said. “You have one short life so you should be able to know it inside-out.”

 

Debra concluded the breakfast by inquiring about the scholars’ future career goals, as well as giving them extra bits of advice on how to be successful in the industry. The scholars left the event with both inspiration and a plethora of meaningful tips which they will be able to employ in their job search and future careers.

Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I w…

Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I was also a top FSF scholarship winner for Merchandising & Marketing in 2018. Enjoy reading about the fun and engaging events we are hosting this summer for the 2018 scholars!

Breakfast with the Boss: Lisa Panattoni, President of Merchandising at ROSS Stores, Inc.

Lisa Panattoni is the President of Merchandising at ROSS Stores, Inc. She directly oversees men’s, home, cosmetics, lingerie, and jewelry, and has been at ROSS for over 12 years. Lisa has spent 25 years of her career in off-price retail. In college …

Lisa Panattoni is the President of Merchandising at ROSS Stores, Inc. She directly oversees men’s, home, cosmetics, lingerie, and jewelry, and has been at ROSS for over 12 years. Lisa has spent 25 years of her career in off-price retail. In college she majored in Communications with a minor in Business. Upon graduation, Lisa entered the training program for Weinstock’s department store in Sacramento, California. She spent six years working for Weinstock’s, eventually moving to the east coast to work for TJX, and later ROSS Stores, Inc. Lisa discovered her natural propensity for the fast-paced world of off-price retail, and has been a part of the industry ever since.

What do you think has helped with the growth of stores like T.J. Maxx and ROSS in recent years?” one scholar asked. “I’ve been working with off-price for a very long time,” Lisa responded. “When I started, there were maybe one third of the number of off-price stores that we have now. The growth has really been explosive. I think it has a lot to do with how people like to shop. We are starting to see a separation of internet shopping and shopping in physical places that are a bit more experiential. Shopping at ROSS, and in off-price stores in general, is fun! It’s not for everyone, but for those who enjoy it, it is an experience. You go in one day and find a bargain, and come back the next week and take part in the treasure hunt all over again. I think that drives a lot of our business. Some people have to shop off-price, and some people just enjoy the hunt. I think the combination of both has driven a lot of the growth.”

“Would you say that off-price and full-price stores operate differently?” another scholar inquired. “Oh yes,” Lisa said. “They operate very differently. One of the things that really separates off-price is the level of flexibility. When you think ab…

Would you say that off-price and full-price stores operate differently?” another scholar inquired. “Oh yes,” Lisa said. “They operate very differently. One of the things that really separates off-price is the level of flexibility. When you think about a more traditional store, you are really centered around laying out seasons and working on doing so a year in advance. A merchant here at ROSS is really living more in the moment. There is much more ability to change. Our merchants look at sales each week and start to recognize patterns and make quick changes to assortments based on those findings. The ability to evolve your assortment so quickly is a major advantage and a major difference in off-price versus full-price retailers.”

How do you avoid overbuying?” one scholar followed up. “We have hundreds of merchants who all love to buy. We run a trend analysis that allows us to track trends and see where we are,” Lisa explained. “We also have a planning team that is side by side with the merchant team to make sure that our plans are aligned and our buyers are in check. The other component of off-price that is different is the way we approach buying. If we have a budget for 100 of an item, but there are 500 available for an amazing deal, we will buy all 500. We don’t let our plans constrict us if it is the right deal.”

 “E-commerce has shaken up the way a lot of full-price retailers approach business,” another scholar said. “Would you say that e-commerce has had as great of an effect on off-price retailers like ROSS?” Lisa responded, “This is a question that the market asks us all the time. We are obviously paying a great deal attention to the internet; Amazon is making the news every other week. ROSS’s position so far as really been to wait and see. We are watching other off-price retailers and seeing how they are moving. However, one of the things about off-price is that it is a fairly low average ticket, and it changes very quickly. For this reason, it is very expensive for our products to be up on a website. At the end of the day, we have a tremendous amount of store growth ahead of us and we’d like to focus on that. We are definitely paying a lot of attention to how the internet is affecting retail, but we are confident in our strategies.”

“Right now as you know, full-price retailers are struggling, but off-price is on the rise,” another scholar noted. “What do you think is the biggest challenge that off-price retailers face in terms of remaining successful and continuing to grow?”&nb…

Right now as you know, full-price retailers are struggling, but off-price is on the rise,” another scholar noted. “What do you think is the biggest challenge that off-price retailers face in terms of remaining successful and continuing to grow?” Lisa replied that ROSS’s strategy is all about mutual success. “I think we have to continue to get great talent for our company, which is why we love programs like the YMA FSF. Having the right people in the right chairs at the right time is a huge part of our ability to grow. The other part is sort of dependent on other retailers’ performance.  We need a healthy supply chain to function well. It is good for us if other retailers are doing well. If everyone else is performing well, then they’re buying and putting goods out on the market. It’s good for the total economy, and for retail. Certain closures are good for the short term, but not necessarily for the long term.”

We closed out the question and answer session with a final inquiry from a scholar. “What do you think is a key trait in yourself that has helped you move up in your career?” she asked. “When I started working in retail, I didn’t come in with the mindset that I was going to be a President one day,” Lisa replied honestly. “I think that as I started to move along and feel more comfortable in my career and with my skills, one of the main things that helped me succeed was doing the job that I was given and doing it well, without being distracted by what I thought was to come or where I wanted to go down the line. For me, when I became a buyer, I didn’t worry about becoming a division or the Vice President. I worked hard at being a great buyer and let opportunities come. You still have to be an advocate for your career, but I wasn’t always looking for the next job. I was focused on the job I was in at that moment in time. I think this mindset really helped me get ahead. Additionally, I think it is important to approach things with a level of intellectual curiosity. Whatever you are doing, whether it is getting coffee or styling a show, there is a lot to be learned from each experience. You need to want to learn beyond just the singular task you are given.”

Lisa Panattoni’s Words of Wisdom:Focus on the job you are given and do it well.Approach life with a level of intellectual curiosity.Learn beyond just the singular task you are given.

Lisa Panattoni’s Words of Wisdom:

Focus on the job you are given and do it well.

Approach life with a level of intellectual curiosity.

Learn beyond just the singular task you are given.

The Evolution of the Fashion Industry - Marty Staff, CEO of BCBG

Marty Staff is one of the most renown names in retail and his extensive experience in the field makes it clear to see why.  Marty has worked in executive roles with companies such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and HUGO BOSS, just to name a few…

Marty Staff is one of the most renown names in retail and his extensive experience in the field makes it clear to see why.  Marty has worked in executive roles with companies such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and HUGO BOSS, just to name a few. He is currently CEO at BCBG Maxazaria. Marty has made his mark on the fashion world and continues to advance innovation within the industry. Staff accepted his first role in retail in an entry-level position at Bloomingdales, and the rest is history. He developed a passion for the work that motivates him every day.  “If you don’t love this profession,” Marty said, “You won’t do well. This industry becomes your life, not just your job.” Our scholars were fortunate enough to receive some words of wisdom from Staff at our event hosted by BCBG.

“In retail what we need is a marriage between both design and business,” Marty said. “That is where the ‘secret sauce’ for success comes from.” Staff divulged some business advice to the audience, emphasizing some of the core themes our scholars have been hearing throughout the summer. “People are spending less and less on clothes and more on experiences and entertainment,” he said. “Therefore, we need to make retail more exciting and entertaining.” Marty recalled a marketing tactic he and his team used with HUGO BOSS. “We used to simply sponsor events like film festivals and premieres, but never had any true role in the event itself. After noticing that our sponsorships weren’t doing as much as we’d hoped for our brand, we decided to try something new. We put together a huge party for HUGO BOSS and invited all kinds of celebrities and influencers. The reaction we recieved from this event really helped shape the image of HUGO BOSS into what it is today.”

Staff went on to discuss the process behind deciding on the value of a retail item. “If you compete solely on price, you will always lose,” he said honestly. “If a buyer tells you that they want you to lower the price of your item, that means your i…

Staff went on to discuss the process behind deciding on the value of a retail item. “If you compete solely on price, you will always lose,” he said honestly. “If a buyer tells you that they want you to lower the price of your item, that means your item is just not that hot right now. The price of an item isn’t about whether it is ‘expensive’ or ‘cheap’ – it’s a question of whether it is worth it to the buyer.” Marty shared some details about the math behind how companies price an item. “Each member of the process wants a certain amount in profits,” he said. “If an item cost $20 to produce, the manufacturer is going to want a 50% markup, which means you need to price it at $40. The retailer will then want a 60% markup on that price, meaning the item will need to be priced at $100 when it hits the selling floor. There are a lot of parties involved and we need to satisfy each one.”

In retail, more than half of a company’s business comes from basic items and predictable commodities. Creativity and innovation generate consumer interest in making the purchases that produce the remaining portion of sales. Marty shared that as a company, when an industry feels stagnant, you need to create the demand and then fill it. “A good example of this is a company called Free City,” he shared. “Their main product line centers around loungewear and sweat suits. However, they draw customers in by making coming into their store locations an engaging experience. Alongside their clothing they sell a large assortment of health and fitness items ranging from full sized bicycles to fresh almond milk.” When retail locations are experiential, companies are selling their customers more than just their items; they are selling a lifestyle. 

Our scholars were eager to ask such a season retail executive questions about his experiences. “What do you love most about retail?” one scholar asked. “I started as an assistant buyer for sweaters,” Marty shared. “My boss once gave me about 12…

Our scholars were eager to ask such a season retail executive questions about his experiences. “What do you love most about retail?” one scholar asked. “I started as an assistant buyer for sweaters,” Marty shared. “My boss once gave me about 1200 sweaters and told me to set them up in the store by color and organize the display. To the average person, this might sound like the most horrible job in the world. To me, it was amazing. I couldn’t get enough. ‘Does the grey look best by the light pink or the pale blue? Does the pale blue look best by the lime?’ I would ask myself. When I finished setting up the display, it felt great knowing that when the customer sees it they could be inspired to make a purchase. The inspiration and creativity in retail are the root of my drive.”

“We’ve heard a lot this summer that it is important to gain experience in the industry outside of your specific role. What advice can you give on how to achieve that?” another scholar asked. “Being able to gain an understanding of other areas needs to be a crucial part of your internship or job experience,” Marty stressed. “When you are looking for a job, you need to make sure that exposure to different areas is something that company can offer you. A job interview is as much for the applicant as it is for the employer. Part of your evaluation as an applicant needs to be whether you can get exposure to a wide range of topics while in that position.”

“You’ve worked with a number of very successful and well established brands,” a scholar noted. “How are brands able to continue to drive excitement when it seems as though they’ve reached their peak?” Marty provided some insights on the differe…

“You’ve worked with a number of very successful and well established brands,” a scholar noted. “How are brands able to continue to drive excitement when it seems as though they’ve reached their peak?” Marty provided some insights on the different way organizations can approach this. “Many companies generate new revenue streams by creating other collections, like direct-to-retailer lines. Ralph Lauren did this when they formed Chaps, and it was a great success. Companies also often partake in collaborations to freshen up their brand image. Brooks Brothers did this with Supreme and it worked wonders for their brand. Louis Vuitton recently released a collaboration with Supreme as well.” Collaborations are a great way to generate new energy within a brand and stimulate excitement. 

Marty’s Words of Wisdom:If you don’t love this profession, you won’t do well. This industry becomes your life, not just your job.In the retail market, you cannot be average at what you do and expect to succeed.The price of an item is not about wheth…

Marty’s Words of Wisdom:

If you don’t love this profession, you won’t do well. This industry becomes your life, not just your job.

In the retail market, you cannot be average at what you do and expect to succeed.

The price of an item is not about whether it is “expensive” or “cheap” – it is a question of whether the cost is worth it to the buyer.

In a stagnant industry, you need to create the demand and then fill it.

Love what you do and live what you love.

Macy’s Networking Session – Marc Mastronardi & YMA FSF Alumni Panel

YMA FSF Board of Governor and FSF Scholarship Chair Marc Mastronardi recently shared his time with our scholars, delivering an inspirational speech on his experiences in retail and answering their questions on the future of the industry. Marc has be…

YMA FSF Board of Governor and FSF Scholarship Chair Marc Mastronardi recently shared his time with our scholars, delivering an inspirational speech on his experiences in retail and answering their questions on the future of the industry. Marc has been with Macy’s for over 20 years and is currently the EVP of New Business Development and Innovation. While Marc has excelled in the retail world, when he was an undergraduate student he expected his career to take him elsewhere. Having studied finance and accounting at Boston College, Mastronardi had every intention of pursuing a career in finance upon graduation. A visit to his university from the then CEO of Filene’s completely changed his perspective. After the CEO’s speech, Marc was able to speak with her for a few minutes. It was then that she convinced Mastronardi to give retail a try. Marc accepted her offer and decided to venture out into retail; he hasn’t looked back since.

After Macy’s acquisition of Filene’s, Marc worked his way through a number of roles and departments at Macy’s, including General Merchandise Manager. In his current role in New Business Development, Marc and his team work to find innovative ways to advance Macy’s as a company and continue to excel at retail. As the landscape of the industry is quickly evolving, the presence of a team like Marc’s is more important than ever. 

A major discussion topic in the industry at the moment is how to keep brick and mortar relevant. In New York City, many companies are able to create large and exciting brick and mortar locations that can’t be experienced in the same way elsewhere in…

A major discussion topic in the industry at the moment is how to keep brick and mortar relevant. In New York City, many companies are able to create large and exciting brick and mortar locations that can’t be experienced in the same way elsewhere in the country. “How is Macy’s trying to bring the experiences found in the Herald Square location to the rest of their stores across the country?” one scholar asked.  “There is no doubt that this location is special,” Marc said, “And we want to keep it special. Nevertheless, there are definitely entertainment features in this location that we can bring into our other locations. We will bring it physically or digitally through emerging technologies, which are really not so far off anymore. We are always looking for ways to make the in-store experience more important and enjoyable.”

 “What do you see the future of department stores to be?” another scholar said. Mastronardi responded that there has certainly been some disruption in the way department stores function. “The role of stores is changing. They will no longer only be the place of commerce,” he stated. “Stores will also be more so a place of discovery and inspiration. Technologies are likely to have scale in the future. Virtual reality, 3D printing –these are all likely to have a role in stores moving forward. If you can make it work correctly, department stores can be the anchors of a lot of communities.”

After Marc spoke, our scholars were given the opportunity to hear from a panel of FSF alumni who are currently employed at Macy’s in a wide array of departments. The alumni in attendance were Patrick McCabe, Designer for Men's Dress Shirts and Neckw…

After Marc spoke, our scholars were given the opportunity to hear from a panel of FSF alumni who are currently employed at Macy’s in a wide array of departments. The alumni in attendance were Patrick McCabe, Designer for Men's Dress Shirts and Neckwear, Felicia Podberesky, Associate Designer for JM Collection, Abbie Luzecky, Omni Associate Merchandise Planner, Marlena Meyer, Analytical Consulting Manager, and Samantha Duke, Product Manager for Men's Dress Shirts. Nicole Rosario, a member of Macy’s Human Resources Executive Development Program, moderated the panel. 

Nicole began by asking the alumni to go over what their job entails and the role they play within the company. “I work in product development,” said Samantha.  “I went to school for fashion merchandising and always knew I wanted to do something outside of buying, but wasn’t really quite sure what it was. I think product development is the perfect combination of the art and the science of this industry. There’s a lot of math, science, and business analytical skills involved, but there is also a very fun, creative, product-focused side to it. When you’re in product development at Macy’s, you get to touch every single part of the organization in one day. You’re constantly in connection with your buyer and your planner, creating strategies for the season you’re going into. You’re working on so many things at once. You have to constantly be thinking ahead.” 

Marlena went on to speak about her past role as a buyer within the organization. “The buyer really focuses on the product and on the relationship with the vendor,” she said. “They work really closely with the planner to understand what is the right …

Marlena went on to speak about her past role as a buyer within the organization. “The buyer really focuses on the product and on the relationship with the vendor,” she said. “They work really closely with the planner to understand what is the right product at the right time in the right location. The time and location is much more for the planner to focus on, and the product is for the buyer. Some other topics that the buyer works on are marketing and pricing. Additionally, while Macys.com and Macy’s are now merged, we still have a separate role called the “digital merchant” just for Macys.com, which can be described as a store manager for our online division. As a buyer, you work a lot with the digital merchant to discover what products need to be purchased for the online site.” The panel all agreed that this is a fast paced industry in which things are constantly changing. “Each day is different, and as a planner you need to stay up to date with in-store and online purchases,” Abbie added. “No day is the same.”

Nicole then went on to ask our panel what they felt were some of the most important skills needed to be successful in this industry. “From a design perspective, things can change very quickly,” Felicia said. "You need to constantly have new ideas and try to push the envelope in terms of what you are creating. Even if your customer is not the trendiest or most fashionable, she still wants something new and wants to feel beautiful. You have to figure out what is new to her, and give it to her."

Patrick added to the necessary skills for a designer. “You obviously need to understand Illustrator, Photoshop, and how to put together a tech pack,” he said, “But I think the most important thing I’ve learned is how to understand your customer and what they’re looking for. You need to understand what they want – not just for right now, but what they will be looking for one year from now. Being able to define what a brand means is important.”

Macy’s Words of Wisdom:Networking really is a job. It is a commitment to the effort, not a social engagement.If you want to create a best in class customer experience, pay attention to every detail.Whether or not your customer is considered the tren…

Macy’s Words of Wisdom:

Networking really is a job. It is a commitment to the effort, not a social engagement.

If you want to create a best in class customer experience, pay attention to every detail.

Whether or not your customer is considered the trendiest or the most fashionable, she still wants something new, and wants to feel beautiful. You have to figure out what is new to her, and bring it to her.

For the customer, it is not just about shopping for ‘you’, it’s about shopping for ‘you in this moment.’

Breakfast with the Boss - Malie Bingham, PVH

Malie Bingham has been a designer at PVH since 2002, specializing in cut & sew knits and sweaters. In 2016, Malie founded Pick Glass, an online resource for fashion industry professionals.  She uses her platform to help educate industry mem…

Malie Bingham has been a designer at PVH since 2002, specializing in cut & sew knits and sweaters. In 2016, Malie founded Pick Glass, an online resource for fashion industry professionals.  She uses her platform to help educate industry members on how to navigate their network and stay up to date with what is going on in the fashion world. Malie is an involved member of the YMA FSF community, and our scholars were fortunate enough to be able receive advice from her on how to approach networking in the fashion industry.

 “Tell me the truth,” Malie asked, “What do you all think about networking? When people hear the word ‘networking,’ a lot of people think about networking events, reaching out to brands or influencers that you like, or having friends introduce you to someone you might like to know. The truth is, you always need to be networking.” Malie explained that networking is an important aspect of everyday life. Whether you’re looking for a new job, trying to promote your work, or just looking to stay up to date with the happenings in the industry, you need to build a strong network.  “You don’t only network when you are looking for a job; you network to create a group of people that you can always turn to for support in helping you reach your goals.”

When it comes to networking, many people wait until they need something from others to reach out. Malie advised our scholars not to do so. “Don’t wait to connect with people until you need something. Keep them updated on your work; create a conversation. This way, when you do need something, it can come up naturally and won’t seem rude.” Bingham also pointed out that connecting with people who work at companies of interest to you is a good way to get your foot in the door. “It is proven that you will get more jobs through people that you know, instead of just by applying to jobs posted on job boards.  Connect with humans, not a black hole, and you are more likely to see positive results.”

Growing your network is a truly fundamental part of progressing on your own career journey. “Your network is your net worth,” Malie said. “Many people feel like your work should speak for itself, so you need to make sure that your network knows your…

Growing your network is a truly fundamental part of progressing on your own career journey. “Your network is your net worth,” Malie said. “Many people feel like your work should speak for itself, so you need to make sure that your network knows your work and its value. When your network knows the worth of your work, more opportunities will come your way.” The hardest part of networking for many people is not the initial connection, but staying in touch later. Malie stressed that keeping your connections in the loop as you further your career is a great way to strengthen your ties. She went on to explain that staying in touch doesn’t have to be complicated. “For example, before you leave your job this summer, send your superiors personalized thank you notes,” she suggested. She also recommended initiating conversation on LinkedIn or through email by asking your connections a question, such as “Are you still working at XYZ Company?” Using a question to begin a conversation raises your chances of getting a response.

“You said a good way to connect with people is to update them on what you’re involved in. Are people really interested in keeping up with that we are doing?” one scholar asked. “Yes,” Malie replied, “But you should try and ask them about themse…

“You said a good way to connect with people is to update them on what you’re involved in. Are people really interested in keeping up with that we are doing?” one scholar asked. “Yes,” Malie replied, “But you should try and ask them about themselves as well. You can thank people for the time they’ve spent with you or for things they’ve taught you; people like to feel appreciated. Make the person you’re connecting with feel good about it.”
 
“In the past after an internship,” another student asked, “I’d ask for a letter of recommendation, and I wouldn’t receive a response. How do I deal with that type of situation?” Malie reiterated the importance of following up with your connections. “I know a lot of people are very busy in this industry,” Malie said. “Try following up a second time to give them a gentle nudge. Additionally, you could even write a recommendation for them on LinkedIn! Do a small write up of how much you enjoyed working there and what you learned.”

“Networking is really important in every career field,” one scholar noted. “How does the fashion industry differ in terms of networking?” Malie responded that the fashion industry is a lot more concentrated on partnership. “I think that it’s more about collaboration in the fashion industry. PVH is a huge company with many buildings. Even so, I’ve had to work with lots of people in many different departments to get projects completed. People are also doing tons of start-ups now in collaboration with many other different people – not just other fashion industry workers, but people from every sector,” she said. “Collaboration is the new currency.”

Malie’s Words of Wisdom:“Connect with humans and not a black hole.”“Your network is your net worth.”“Collaboration is the new currency.”“Always try to give more than you get.”

Malie’s Words of Wisdom:

“Connect with humans and not a black hole.”

“Your network is your net worth.”

“Collaboration is the new currency.”

“Always try to give more than you get.”