Breakfast with the Boss - Debra Malbin, Founder of Debra Malbin Associates

Debra Malbin has had both a unique and immensely successful career in the fashion industry. Upon graduating from FSF member school, the University of Florida, with a degree in Marketing, she started working for a media agency in New York. At first, like many graduates, she did not find her first job to be aligned with her true passions, therefore, on a whim, Debra applied for a seasonal role at Bloomingdale’s and was hired. She remained with the company for eight years, and was promoted from a position as an assistant buyer, to department manager, to a buyer for multiple divisions in both home and menswear. As her eighth year rolled in, she decided to move to a wholesale position at Jhane Barnes which was owned by Oxford Industries. There, she went from being a VP of sales to becoming a president of multiple divisions, both positions in which she found herself truly thriving because of her natural propensity for oversight, teamwork, and larger-scale decision making. Her final career move happened when she started her own executive recruiting business, Debra Malbin Associates, which blended all of her unique talents and interests. DMA is a small boutique search firm that specializes in recruiting middle to senior management executives.

Firstly, Debra shared with the scholars the different opportunities that are available for graduates, and what the various jobs in the industry entail. “There are so many different jobs in fashion,” Debra expressed, “Students usually aspire to go into buying or marketing, but they have never even been exposed to licensing or strategy”. She further explained that a job in licensing has the potential to blend the diverse interests, such as sales, product, and interpersonal communication skills, of someone who is not blatantly set on one thing. “Your first job(s) are a sort of elimination process; the search is like a pyramid, where you start with a broader selection and then it gets more and more narrow as you check off what you dislike”, Debra explained.

Next, Debra went in-depth on both good and bad interviewing techniques, from her point of view as someone who has had extensive experience with recruiting. “You never get a second chance at a first impression,” Debra stressed, “After that one second, it will be difficult to sway someone into thinking of you otherwise, so look presentable, have a firm handshake, and appear confident. If you can, choose the middle seat instead of a seat to the far right or far left”. Alyssa Zinola, events and social media manager for FSF, added that a good idea is to dress professionally, even for a phone interview. “When you are dressed up, you are more likely to speak professionally and envision yourself in an interview setting rather than speaking as if you are on the phone with a friend”, she explained.

Lastly, Debra talked the scholars through several tips regarding their resumes and cover letters. “How long should a cover letter be?” One scholar asked, “I’ve heard opposing perspectives on whether they should be a full page or just one paragraph”. Debra answered by explaining that, since many people in the fashion industry are both visual and often pressed for time, they appreciate brevity and concision. “A cover letter should be two paragraphs,” She articulated, “One paragraph which explains who you are and what your skills are, and another which explains why you want to work for this particular company and why the position matches your skills and qualifications”. Debra also stressed the importance of being honest on your resume, as well as knowing the dates, locations, and key learning points of the jobs listed. “I’m surprised at how many people can’t tell me the dates of when they held certain positions,” she said. “You have one short life so you should be able to know it inside-out.”

Debra concluded the breakfast by inquiring about the scholars’ future career goals, as well as giving them extra bits of advice on how to be successful in the industry. The scholars left the event with both inspiration and a plethora of meaningful tips which they will be able to employ in their job search and future careers.

Hi! My name is Katie Kornienko and I am the 2018 YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund Summer Intern. I am studying Fashion Merchandising and Finance at the University of Delaware, and I am the Executive Editor of my school’s fashion publication, UDress. I was also a top FSF scholarship winner for Merchandising & Marketing in 2018. Enjoy reading about the fun and engaging events we are hosting this summer for the 2018 scholars!

Alumni Dream Grant Meet Up featuring Jameel Mohammed and Kathrine Zeren

The YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund recently announced the expansion of its portfolio of scholarships to include the Alumni Dream Grant. Continuing the organization’s mission of identifying the best and brightest talent from the 61 partner colleges and universities for the future of the fashion industry, the Fashion Scholarship Fund Alumni Dream Grant will support an early stage start-up for further growth through mentorship from industry experts and an equity-free $50,000 grant. The Alumni Dream Grant will be given out annually to one promising startup led by an Alumni of the Fashion Scholarship Fund undergraduate program. The first application round is expected to launch in January of 2018 at the Annual Awards Gala, with the first winner being announced in the summer of 2018. Kathrine Zeren and Jameel Mohammed are two YMA FSF Alumni who have taken a leap of faith and chosen to start their own fashion lines. Both attended our Alumni Dream Grant social at the Zola offices in New York and shared their journey’s with a selection of YMA FSF alumni.

Kathrine Zeren is an YMA FSF Scholar Alumni from 2006 and 2007. She has started her own brand within the menswear accessories space based in Houston, Texas. “I graduated about 10 years ago from the Rhode Island School of Design,” she said. “Upon graduating, I went to work for Abercrombie & Fitch's brand Ruehl until they closed. I then went to work for Hollister for a year, followed by Abercrombie for my final two years at the company. I stayed in women's fashion woven tops, shirting, & dresses the entire time, so wovens kind of became my focus. I loved the opportunities that A&F gave me at a young age, and learned so much. However, after 4 years, I was ready for a change. I wanted to spend some time traveling and doing volunteer work overseas. Toms & Warby Parker were relatively new companies, and I was inspired to see if I could create something with a socially-minded focus as well. I needed to raise money for my trip, and on a whim, I decided to try making ties to sell.

“Fast forward 5 years, and I now have a line of ties, bowties, and pocket squares, as well as a selection of candles and soap. I also source and sell vintage finds such as handkerchiefs and tie bars. Back when I started out, however, I just wanted to challenge myself in a different way. Having done patternmaking in school, I knew I had enough experience to make something. I had never really tried menswear or accessories, so I thought, 'Why not?' After finding some nice-looking ties, I took them apart and figured out how they were made. In the end, I sold enough ties to help fund my trip overseas. 

"Shortly after returning to the States, I decided to take a job teaching high school art, but later realized that teaching alone wouldn't be enough. I missed being able to create something that was my own. A friend of mine who was in grad school at the time seemed to be doing these amazingly creative things, and I felt a little envious. After confessing how I was feeling, she asked me, ‘Why don’t you just start something? You already have these products that you’ve been making. Why don’t you just launch your own line?’

“In my mind, I was unsure. I had no idea how to start a company. I think that some level of business education is becoming more common in fashion programs, but I never had any of that. When I was in school, it was more about pushing boundaries creatively, and less about building a business. So, I did tons of research and talked to anybody who was willing to give me advice. I went back to school. I also ran a successful Kickstarter campaign that funded my first factory order.

"In order to do something that felt a little more meaningful - and that would end up helping set me apart - I decided to work with only sustainably sourced fabrics. At the time, people thought that I was crazy for restricting myself in this way. Nevertheless, I really felt it was important to make my line as sustainable as possible. I also wanted to keep production exclusively in the United States so that I could have more oversight into how everything was being made.

"If you ever start your own company, you should have certain non-negotiables. If you compromise your core values to please others, then you'll put yourself in danger of compromising the very reason you wanted to start something in the first place. As I've said, sustainability and domestic production were my two driving factors initially, and they are still at the heart of what we do today. We’ve since collaborated with other artists, expanded into candles and soap, both scented with essential oils, and we are exploring other ways to expand the line.”

Jameel Mohammed is an YMA FSF Alumni from the year 2015, and a recipient of the Jim Edelman Scholarship endowed at The Wharton School. He is also applying for the Alumni Dream Grant to be awarded in 2018. Jameel’s line is a luxury jewelry collection inspired by the African diaspora. “I’m originally from Chicago, Illinois, and I’m currently a student at the University of Pennsylvania studying Political Science,” said Jameel. “I started working in fashion when I was 16. I did design internships at Nicole Miller and Narciso Rodriguez. Before that, I was honestly a really awkward kid. I’m very tall, very long, and was not very confident growing up. In the seventh grade, I had an Aunt who brought me to J. Crew around the age of twelve and basically just told me that we needed to pull my look together. That was how I first became interested in fashion. I came into high school knowing that I wanted to go into the fashion industry.

“When I came to Penn, in my first year I did a collection of clothes just as sort of a hobby. That year, the CEO of Barneys came to speak at Penn Fashion Week, an annual event at my school. I asked them, rather shamelessly, what it would take for a designer to get their clothes into Barneys. They told me to show them what I had made, so I brought all of the garment samples that I had created in my dorm room. At the time, I had also developed some jewelry, and Barneys really took a liking to the pieces. They offered me an internship in buying for the coming summer, and every few weeks while I worked there I would bring in new samples to be reviewed by the Fashion Director.

“I worked in jewelry for a while, designing, sketching, and really honing into my vision. My sophomore year of college I did the YMA FSF Scholarship and won the Jim Edelman Scholarship. I took the entirety of my scholarship funds and used that to live in New York for the summer after my sophomore year and to produce my second set of samples of jewelry. I went to all different sorts of suppliers in the jewelry district in Manhattan saying, ‘I want my jewelry to look like this. Can you help me make that happen?’ Everyone would give a ‘get-out-of-here-kid’ response at first, but while they did so, they all helped me out by recommending another place I could look for help. I put together my first collection that way.

“I took photos of my line and sent them to some editors and started getting press pretty early on. Our first big exposure was in Paper Magazine where I was a freelance writer for a while. The images that I had taken of our first campaign got a lot of traction. From that, we were able to place ourselves in a good position for press outreach. We had The New York Times, Elle, Teen Vogue, and Vogue Paris give us editorial support that led into a greater reputation at wholesale.

“Today, we are being sold in Barneys New York. Our brand is called Khiry. Our goal is to be the first luxury brand inspired by the African diaspora. I went on a trip to Japan with The Wharton School for an international program and had the CEO of a luxury conglomerate say that the only true luxury brands in the world are those that have originated from Milan or Paris. I’m a contrarian and a political science major, and so I set out to create a black luxury brand. I think it is important that there is a perspective in this industry that is not entirely western. A broader set of cultural references is important, significant, and deserves to be approached with the seriousness and gravitas of any other luxury brand.”

The Fashion Scholarship Fund’s mission is to advance the fashion industry by encouraging gifted and enterprising young people to pursue careers in design, merchandising, retailing and business, ensuring the industry will continue to attract dedicated, capable and creative individuals. The Alumni Dream Grant is another step in making this mission a reality. Kathrine, Jameel, and a number of other alumni will be submitting their applications for this amazing opportunity in January of 2018. The winners are to be announced in the summer of that same year.

Alumni Dream Grant Meet Up with Rachel Jarrett, President & COO of Zola.com

Rachel Jarrett is the President and COO of Zola.com, an online wedding registry and planning company changing the way we approach wedding preparation.  Rachel has had experience in both the traditional retail and e-commerce space, as well as in the start up world. She was gracious enough to share a bit about her career journey with a selection of YMA FSF alumni at our Alumni Dream Grant Meet Up at the Zola offices in New York. Marlena Meyers, YMA FSF Alumni and one of the directors of the YMA FSF Alumni Association, moderated the discussion.

“Can you tell us a bit about your background, where you’ve been, and how you ended up at Zola.com?” Marlena asked. “First of all, thank you all so much for inviting me to come speak with you. This is a very impressive group, and it is amazing that you are all a part of the Fashion Scholarship Fund,” Rachel said. “I actually just learned that someone on my team here at Zola was a recipient of this scholarship as well! In terms of my background, I was a career changer. I started out in government. I actually worked for five years at the CIA,” she said. “I eventually left to get my MBA and attended the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University. During my time at business school, I fell in love with retail and decided that was where I wanted to end up. I started working at Toys R Us as an Associate Buyer and worked my way all the way up to merchandising, eventually becoming the Director of Merchandising. I stayed at Toys R Us for five years and then moved to FAO Schwarz. I stayed there for a year and then had the chance to move into e-commerce. I went to work for Barnes & Noble.com. My time there was during a very exciting period when they were launching Nook. That was an amazing adventure and I was so glad to be a part of it. Next, I joined Gilt.com where I ran their children’s business for several years. Later, I took another detour and actually opened up my own chocolate store on the Upper East Side. After two years, I then came to Zola where I’ve been for a year and a half. As the President and COO, I run the finance, operations, merchandising, growth, human resources, and legal functions of the company. Zola is the fastest growing wedding company in the United States right now. We started out in registry only, but we recently transitioned into offering services for the entire wedding planning process. Our services now include the website, guest list, checklist, and everything else you need to make your wedding what you want it to be. We have really succeeded by using technology and innovation to recreate something that hasn’t changed in a long time.”

“Can you tell us about the background of the company and how it got started?” Marlena inquired. Rachel went on to share some information about Zola’s CEO and what inspired her to create this business. “Our CEO, Shan-Lyn Ma, founded our company. Approximately four years ago, she was invited to ten weddings in one year. She had to buy gifts for all of these friends of hers off their wedding registry. She went to purchase these gifts and found that this was the worst e-commerce experience she had ever had,” Rachel said. “Shan had worked at Gilt and had built the iPhone app for that company. From her experience there, she was a visionary product leader. Reflecting on the wedding registry experience she had, she realized that not only did she not like it, but her friends didn’t enjoy the process either. She decided to recreate the wedding registry process using technology to make registry a completely different and much better experience. She started out with her new business idea and got immediate traction with new couples who found this to be a more modern way to register.

“On our platform, you can register for cash, experiences, and product – all in once place. Traditionally, you would have to go to a different place for each of these things. On Zola.com, you can also choose when your gifts ship to you. Instead of coming back from your honeymoon to a hundred packages you weren’t ready for, Zola allows you to control when those gifts get to you. You can even return a gift before it gets to you. If your grandma buys you a gift you don’t love, before the item comes to you, you’ll receive an email asking you whether you’d like to keep or exchange the gift. If you want to exchange it, you can do it for a credit on our site. We are solving real customer pain points, and continue to do so.”

“Going back to your own personal career journey,” Marlena said, “You began your professional retail voyage at Toys R Us, but then transitioned to Gilt. What was that transition like, and what was the decision process surrounding your choice to cross over from traditional retail into e-commerce?” Rachel shared some of the different experiences she had during her time at each establishment. “I had a great time learning from working at the bigger companies I was employed at. I think that working in merchandising and buying is an amazing training ground. It’s like being a mini CEO of your own little business. You learn so many transferable skills,” she said. “When I went to Gilt, what was so exciting was just to see the pace of innovation, and the value of what you could bring to the table regardless of your level of experience or age. I joined Gilt very early on and our head of operations was around 24 years old, and did an amazing job. Working there was about being talented, innovative, and getting things done. I would say we have a similar environment at Zola. It’s so fun to be a part of such a creative company. On the down side, working at a start up there is of course always so much more risk involved. That being said, traditional retail is not in the steadiest place either at the moment. I think that given the circumstances, you need to go where you are excited and where you really want to be, and less where you think you should be based on what you predict the outcome of this moment in retail history to be. Whether you’re going to a small startup or a giant retailer, who knows what could happen. You just can’t tell.”

“Lastly,” said Marlena, “Do you have any advice you want to pass on to our alumni?” Rachel opened up about the lessons she has learned during her time in retail. “My biggest piece of advice would be to not be afraid to fail. If you are afraid to fail, you’re going to be stuck. There was a great article in the New York Times a few weeks ago about failure being integrated into college curriculums now. People are so nervous about facing failure that they are almost becoming incapable of facing even small failures. Failure opens you up to so many possibilities. My chocolate store was a failure in many senses – I lost a great deal of money from the venture. Nevertheless, it was one of the best things to ever happen to me. Not only did it allow me to find Zola, but it also made me a lot less scared to fail in general. It has made me want to take more risks and try new and creative things. I know now that if I fail, I will be okay.”

Rachel Jarrett’s Words of Wisdom:

You need to work where you are excited and where you really want to be.

Don’t be afraid to fail.

Take more risks and try new and creative things.

Breakfast with the Boss: Lisa Panattoni, President of Merchandising at ROSS Stores, Inc.

Lisa Panattoni is the President of Merchandising at ROSS Stores, Inc. She directly oversees men’s, home, cosmetics, lingerie, and jewelry, and has been at ROSS for over 12 years. Lisa has spent 25 years of her career in off-price retail. In college she majored in Communications with a minor in Business. Upon graduation, Lisa entered the training program for Weinstock’s department store in Sacramento, California. She spent six years working for Weinstock’s, eventually moving to the east coast to work for TJX, and later ROSS Stores, Inc. Lisa discovered her natural propensity for the fast-paced world of off-price retail, and has been a part of the industry ever since.

“What do you think has helped with the growth of stores like T.J. Maxx and ROSS in recent years?” one scholar asked. “I’ve been working with off-price for a very long time,” Lisa responded. “When I started, there were maybe one third of the number of off-price stores that we have now. The growth has really been explosive. I think it has a lot to do with how people like to shop. We are starting to see a separation of internet shopping and shopping in physical places that are a bit more experiential. Shopping at ROSS, and in off-price stores in general, is fun! It’s not for everyone, but for those who enjoy it, it is an experience. You go in one day and find a bargain, and come back the next week and take part in the treasure hunt all over again. I think that drives a lot of our business. Some people have to shop off-price, and some people just enjoy the hunt. I think the combination of both has driven a lot of the growth.”

“Would you say that off-price and full-price stores operate differently?” another scholar inquired. “Oh yes,” Lisa said. “They operate very differently. One of the things that really separates off-price is the level of flexibility. When you think about a more traditional store, you are really centered around laying out seasons and working on doing so a year in advance. A merchant here at ROSS is really living more in the moment. There is much more ability to change. Our merchants look at sales each week and start to recognize patterns and make quick changes to assortments based on those findings. The ability to evolve your assortment so quickly is a major advantage and a major difference in off-price versus full-price retailers.”

“How do you avoid overbuying?” one scholar followed up. “We have hundreds of merchants who all love to buy. We run a trend analysis that allows us to track trends and see where we are,” Lisa explained. “We also have a planning team that is side by side with the merchant team to make sure that our plans are aligned and our buyers are in check. The other component of off-price that is different is the way we approach buying. If we have a budget for 100 of an item, but there are 500 available for an amazing deal, we will buy all 500. We don’t let our plans constrict us if it is the right deal.”

 “E-commerce has shaken up the way a lot of full-price retailers approach business,” another scholar said. “Would you say that e-commerce has had as great of an effect on off-price retailers like ROSS?” Lisa responded, “This is a question that the market asks us all the time. We are obviously paying a great deal attention to the internet; Amazon is making the news every other week. ROSS’s position so far as really been to wait and see. We are watching other off-price retailers and seeing how they are moving. However, one of the things about off-price is that it is a fairly low average ticket, and it changes very quickly. For this reason, it is very expensive for our products to be up on a website. At the end of the day, we have a tremendous amount of store growth ahead of us and we’d like to focus on that. We are definitely paying a lot of attention to how the internet is affecting retail, but we are confident in our strategies.”

“Right now as you know, full-price retailers are struggling, but off-price is on the rise,” another scholar noted. “What do you think is the biggest challenge that off-price retailers face in terms of remaining successful and continuing to grow?” Lisa replied that ROSS’s strategy is all about mutual success. “I think we have to continue to get great talent for our company, which is why we love programs like the YMA FSF. Having the right people in the right chairs at the right time is a huge part of our ability to grow. The other part is sort of dependent on other retailers’ performance.  We need a healthy supply chain to function well. It is good for us if other retailers are doing well. If everyone else is performing well, then they’re buying and putting goods out on the market. It’s good for the total economy, and for retail. Certain closures are good for the short term, but not necessarily for the long term.”

We closed out the question and answer session with a final inquiry from a scholar. “What do you think is a key trait in yourself that has helped you move up in your career?” she asked. “When I started working in retail, I didn’t come in with the mindset that I was going to be a President one day,” Lisa replied honestly. “I think that as I started to move along and feel more comfortable in my career and with my skills, one of the main things that helped me succeed was doing the job that I was given and doing it well, without being distracted by what I thought was to come or where I wanted to go down the line. For me, when I became a buyer, I didn’t worry about becoming a division or the Vice President. I worked hard at being a great buyer and let opportunities come. You still have to be an advocate for your career, but I wasn’t always looking for the next job. I was focused on the job I was in at that moment in time. I think this mindset really helped me get ahead. Additionally, I think it is important to approach things with a level of intellectual curiosity. Whatever you are doing, whether it is getting coffee or styling a show, there is a lot to be learned from each experience. You need to want to learn beyond just the singular task you are given.”

Lisa Panattoni’s Words of Wisdom:

Focus on the job you are given and do it well.

Approach life with a level of intellectual curiosity.

Learn beyond just the singular task you are given.

An Evening at Instagram with Jessica Kleiman & Ashley Chapman

Jessica is the Consumer Communications Director at Instagram, where she oversees all PR efforts across consumer verticals such as fashion, entertainment, sports, teens and music, as well as broader topics like well-being and small business. When she was young, her mother subscribed to the print edition of Women’s Wear Daily. She read the publication everyday and, at a young age, developed a love for magazines. Her passion for publications inspired her to attend the University of Michigan and study Communications with an end goal of becoming a writer or editor for a fashion magazine. Though she interned at a teen magazine while an undergrad, when it came time to graduate, she ventured into public relations to gain more exposure to the industry. She began her career working at a small public relations firm. “Working at a small company is a great experience because you really have to hit the ground running,” she said. “You have to do every job from meeting with the heads of companies to taking out the office trash at night. You have to be able to learn how to do it all.”

Over the course of her career, Jessica earned roles at established companies such as The Knot and Hearst Magazines. Her last role before her current position was at the parent company of LA retail brand Fred Segal. While she loved her time there, after a few years, she wanted to challenge herself in new ways. “It is very easy to stay somewhere when you are comfortable,” she said, “but I wanted to be challenged.” With that in mind, Jessica left and set out for the tech industry. She accepted a position at Instagram and has been there since.

“Networking is so important. It is about always having conversations with the people you meet because you really never know where something is going to lead,” Ashley said. “Always be open. It can lead you to great places.”

Jessica agreed, and added, “I don’t even like to call it ‘networking’ because it has the word ‘work’ in it. I like to call it ‘connecting’ because that is really what you are doing.” They both stressed the importance of constantly staying in touch with your network. “Don’t just get in touch with people when you need something,” Jessica added. “Stay lightly in touch throughout the year.”

While at first glance the technology and fashion industry can seem totally disconnected from one another, they are more intertwined than one might think. Jessica and Ashley shared how big of a role fashion plays in their jobs. “The entertainment industry is a major part of social media,” Ashley said, “and fashion is instrumental in entertainment. We work with our entertainment partners in Los Angeles to find interesting stories to share with our users. These partners are young Hollywood stars, directors, studio heads, and more. We work with them to give them best practices and creative ideas to shape and inform Instagram strategies.” She went on to share more of her personal job description. “My role is to find compelling stories to tell and think of ways to promote these stories throughout the year. We call the bits of your life that you share on your Instagram story the ‘moments in between.’ Instagram’s mission is to strengthen relationships through shared experiences.” 

As Instagram has evolved, events like red carpets and fashion week have been an important part of the platform’s content. “We work very closely with all kinds of stars and entertainment companies during award show seasons,” Ashley added. “Our makeup artist base in particular has been expanding rather quickly. The app has really changed the way fashion trends are seen and shared. Events like fashion week have historically been incredibly exclusive, but with our app, now it’s accessible to everyone.”

Both women shared that Instagram is a passion-based company. “I love Instagram because I’ve always worked in content,” said Jessica. “Instagram is a content company, but the content comes from users, versus coming from editors. I find it really amazing to see trends form organically from our user base.” Ashley agreed, adding, “Instagram has become a source of fashion inspiration, and I love that.”

“With the shift in retail fashion as of late, we’ve seen more and more brands incorporate entertainment and media into their retail spaces,” What is a point of advice you could give to fashion retailers during this critical point of innovation in the industry?” Jessica replied, “I’ll say that from my time at Fred Segal, one of the things I loved about that company was that they really invented experiential retail in the 1960s and 1970s. The location in West Hollywood was really where the rock stars, celebrities, and coolest locals would come to hang out, eat, and spot trends. The Segal family understood that you have to make your stores a destination. Personally, I don’t enjoy shopping in department stores anymore. There has to be a reason for me to go somewhere. Retail has to take cues from digital companies. I think it’s really interesting that so many online fashion startups like Bonobos and Warby Parker are now opening brick and mortar stores. I want to know if they are using their online stores as a real-time database to figure out how best to approach their business before building brick and mortar, or because they are hearing from their customer base that they want to have a physical space in which they can go in and try on items before making a purchase. I don’t know what the answer is. I do know however, that physical retailers have to give customers a reason to be there.”

“Instagram is constantly adding new features to its platform to further engage its user base. How did you all approach the addition of the ‘shoppable’ feature to the platform?” another scholar asked. “We launched Shopping on Instagram a few months ago as a test, and it is still in its test phase,” said Jessica. “We begin with about 20 retailers including Warby Parker and Kate Spade. We don’t make money off of our Instagram shop pages. We created them because we were taking in what we were hearing from our audience and working to make the company and the app the best it can be.” She went into some of the differences between the Facebook and Instagram strategies. “We like to test things. We like to tip toe in and see how things go before we go all out. We want to make sure than we are doing things right. Facebook is all about ‘moving fast and breaking things.’ Instagram is a bit slower in how we roll things out. We don’t necessarily need to be the first to do something, but we need to do it our way,” she said.

“There is so much passion in Instagram,” Ashley added. “Everything that we’ve rolled out at Instagram is something that we’ve heard from our community that they want. We see the relationships forming on Instagram. We know how people use it and how it is so tightly incorporated into their lives. So because of this, everything that we roll out is going to be in response to that.”

Jessica & Ashley’s Word’s of Wisdom:

-       Always stay in touch with every person you meet along your career journey. You never know when your paths are going to cross again.

-       Be your own best publicist.

-       Networking is about connecting with people.

Jimmy Rosenfeld - President & CEO of Fishman & Tobin

Jimmy recalled some of the major influences Fishman & Tobin had on the children’s suit industry. He discussed how when he was young, his predecessors brought color into boy’s suits and began selling them as separate pieces to be mixed and matched. Fishman & Tobin even went so far as to rethink the way in which suit jackets are manufactured. “The company reengineered the men’s suit jacket to make some coats feel more similar to a shirt. By doing this, they were able to create a men’s sport coat that was half the cost to produce, and thus less expensive to purchase than the average jacket. This was a great development for children’s suits. While many were skeptical of the product at first, once large retailers put in orders for that style of suit, the design took off.”

After sharing some of the history of the company, Jimmy opened up the floor to questions. “Our culture has gotten much more casual in the last few years,” one scholar noted. “How have you noticed a demand shift in children’s clothing?” Jimmy responded that the changes in children’s clothing trends are a bit more complex. “That’s a great question,” he said. "Boy’s dress wear is not sexy. I have the data on who’s wearing suits – I know where they are and where they bought them. Children do dress up, but they do so for an occasion. Boy’s dress up apparel sells more consistently than almost any other product carried in major department stores. I’m not saying that it’s a fast growing area, but it is certainly not drastically shrinking. It’s a need-based item; if you put it on sale, a mother is not going to buy their child two nice sport coats just because it is 50% off. They will make a purchase when they need the suit.”

“You mentioned that in your experience, you were able to work in a number of different departments in your business like supply chain, design, and all different functions of business. However, it can be really easy for someone to remain in one area of a company for a long time once they begin. What do you think is the best way for us to get an overhead view of the business without necessarily having to hold jobs in each of those different departments?” another scholar asked. “I would take whatever I define my core job to be and do that job really well and ask a lot of questions,” Jimmy said. “Whether you’re in sales, whether you’re in design, whether you’re in production, it’s all connected. I would hate for each of my teams to be in silos – I want them all to be intertwined.”

Fishman & Tobin has certainly seen a great deal of expansion over the past century. “What do you think the most difficult part in growing the company has been thus far?” one scholar asked. “I think the hardest part has been working together to get the culture of the company cohesive. We want our employees to feel secure and happy to be here. Everyone wants to do a good job at their work, but you have to give them the tools to get there. If you listen to what their difficulties are, you’re going to be able to help solve whichever aspect of the work it is they are struggling with. That’s how we work towards building a positive culture here.”

With the landscape of retail quickly changing, our scholars were naturally curious to see where Jimmy believes the industry will head. “You spoke on how the retail industry is changing so much right now. What do you and your company think is coming next?” one asked. “I think everyone in the industry is trying to answer that question right now,” he said. “Technology and e-commerce are definitely going to play a large role moving forward. I would speak to lots of different start-ups and see how they function, and maybe even invest in them. We are all still working to better our performance in the industry. You have to constantly be learning.”

Jimmy Rosenfeld’s Words of Wisdom

There is something that can be learned from every aspect of the business that can help you be better at doing your job.

Integrity is the most important part of being able to get the job done.

Don’t be a one trick pony – don’t just understand one aspect of the company.

You don’t bring a basketball player to a baseball game unless they’re going to sit in the stands. If you don’t know how to play the game, you’re going to fail.

No matter what, you have to satisfy the customer.

Under promise, over deliver.

Whatever you do, do it really well. 

The Evolution of the Fashion Industry - Marty Staff, CEO of BCBG

Marty Staff is one of the most renown names in retail and his extensive experience in the field makes it clear to see why.  Marty has worked in executive roles with companies such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and HUGO BOSS, just to name a few. He is currently CEO at BCBG Maxazaria. Marty has made his mark on the fashion world and continues to advance innovation within the industry. Staff accepted his first role in retail in an entry-level position at Bloomingdales, and the rest is history. He developed a passion for the work that motivates him every day.  “If you don’t love this profession,” Marty said, “You won’t do well. This industry becomes your life, not just your job.” Our scholars were fortunate enough to receive some words of wisdom from Staff at our event hosted by BCBG.

“In retail what we need is a marriage between both design and business,” Marty said. “That is where the ‘secret sauce’ for success comes from.” Staff divulged some business advice to the audience, emphasizing some of the core themes our scholars have been hearing throughout the summer. “People are spending less and less on clothes and more on experiences and entertainment,” he said. “Therefore, we need to make retail more exciting and entertaining.” Marty recalled a marketing tactic he and his team used with HUGO BOSS. “We used to simply sponsor events like film festivals and premieres, but never had any true role in the event itself. After noticing that our sponsorships weren’t doing as much as we’d hoped for our brand, we decided to try something new. We put together a huge party for HUGO BOSS and invited all kinds of celebrities and influencers. The reaction we recieved from this event really helped shape the image of HUGO BOSS into what it is today.”

Staff went on to discuss the process behind deciding on the value of a retail item. “If you compete solely on price, you will always lose,” he said honestly. “If a buyer tells you that they want you to lower the price of your item, that means your item is just not that hot right now. The price of an item isn’t about whether it is ‘expensive’ or ‘cheap’ – it’s a question of whether it is worth it to the buyer.” Marty shared some details about the math behind how companies price an item. “Each member of the process wants a certain amount in profits,” he said. “If an item cost $20 to produce, the manufacturer is going to want a 50% markup, which means you need to price it at $40. The retailer will then want a 60% markup on that price, meaning the item will need to be priced at $100 when it hits the selling floor. There are a lot of parties involved and we need to satisfy each one.”

In retail, more than half of a company’s business comes from basic items and predictable commodities. Creativity and innovation generate consumer interest in making the purchases that produce the remaining portion of sales. Marty shared that as a company, when an industry feels stagnant, you need to create the demand and then fill it. “A good example of this is a company called Free City,” he shared. “Their main product line centers around loungewear and sweat suits. However, they draw customers in by making coming into their store locations an engaging experience. Alongside their clothing they sell a large assortment of health and fitness items ranging from full sized bicycles to fresh almond milk.” When retail locations are experiential, companies are selling their customers more than just their items; they are selling a lifestyle. 

Our scholars were eager to ask such a season retail executive questions about his experiences. “What do you love most about retail?” one scholar asked. “I started as an assistant buyer for sweaters,” Marty shared. “My boss once gave me about 1200 sweaters and told me to set them up in the store by color and organize the display. To the average person, this might sound like the most horrible job in the world. To me, it was amazing. I couldn’t get enough. ‘Does the grey look best by the light pink or the pale blue? Does the pale blue look best by the lime?’ I would ask myself. When I finished setting up the display, it felt great knowing that when the customer sees it they could be inspired to make a purchase. The inspiration and creativity in retail are the root of my drive.”

“We’ve heard a lot this summer that it is important to gain experience in the industry outside of your specific role. What advice can you give on how to achieve that?” another scholar asked. “Being able to gain an understanding of other areas needs to be a crucial part of your internship or job experience,” Marty stressed. “When you are looking for a job, you need to make sure that exposure to different areas is something that company can offer you. A job interview is as much for the applicant as it is for the employer. Part of your evaluation as an applicant needs to be whether you can get exposure to a wide range of topics while in that position.”

“You’ve worked with a number of very successful and well established brands,” a scholar noted. “How are brands able to continue to drive excitement when it seems as though they’ve reached their peak?” Marty provided some insights on the different way organizations can approach this. “Many companies generate new revenue streams by creating other collections, like direct-to-retailer lines. Ralph Lauren did this when they formed Chaps, and it was a great success. Companies also often partake in collaborations to freshen up their brand image. Brooks Brothers did this with Supreme and it worked wonders for their brand. Louis Vuitton recently released a collaboration with Supreme as well.” Collaborations are a great way to generate new energy within a brand and stimulate excitement. 

Marty’s Words of Wisdom:

If you don’t love this profession, you won’t do well. This industry becomes your life, not just your job.

In the retail market, you cannot be average at what you do and expect to succeed.

The price of an item is not about whether it is “expensive” or “cheap” – it is a question of whether the cost is worth it to the buyer.

In a stagnant industry, you need to create the demand and then fill it.

Love what you do and live what you love.

YMA FSF Alumni Networking Q&A

While all our scholars are currently interning at various companies, many of them are beginning to look for full time positions to acquire after graduation. “I just graduated from college and am beginning to look for jobs,” one scholar said. “How did each of you find your first job?”Meghan responded with her personal career story, emphasizing the importance of continuous networking. “You never know who you are going to run into. Networking really is a round the clock job, and the person you need to meet for the next step in your career could be anywhere.” Meghan opened up about the uncertainty she felt upon graduation. “When I graduated, I didn’t have a job secured as yet,” she shared. “The day after my commencement at a graduation party, I met a woman who worked at Goldman Sachs. From speaking with her, I was able to get an interview with Goldman Sachs the next week and from there, accepted a job. This job wasn’t what I studied for and was not what I had set out looking for, but it was a great learning experience and jumping off point for my career.” Each person’s job search experience is different, so it is important to keep all your career search tools in mint condition. Shota spoke about how his LinkedIn profile helped get him his post-grad position. “I reached out to everyone and anyone I could get in contact with,” he said. “However, the first company I started working for actually reached out to me through LinkedIn. The stronger your LinkedIn profile is, and the more keywords you utilize on your page, the higher your chances are of being contacted by a recruiter. Recruiters actually use LinkedIn as a serious hiring tool. You should also always ask people for their business card after meeting them. You never know the next time you might be in need of a job, so it is a good practice to stay in contact with people who may be able to help you out in the future.”

“Speaking of first jobs,” another scholar chimed in, “I’ve heard a lot of people express fear about taking jobs that aren’t really in the direction they wanted to head with their career path, but are the jobs that they could get at that moment in time. Do you have any advice about how to approach working in jobs you are not entirely certain about?” Marlena shared a personal anecdote about her time with Macy’s in response. “It really depends on the job itself and what you ultimately want to do with your career,” she said. “You have to stay true to yourself. The way that I got my job was through college recruiting. When I got to Macy’s, I never expected to stay here for five years. I thought I would feel it out and switch companies after some time. Once I started however, I was able to find a number of different opportunities within the company that have kept things very interesting. I’ve actually had about seven jobs within Macy’s. Sometimes those placements weren’t exactly what I wanted – some were roles I specifically said I didn’t want. Nevertheless, after accepting the positions, many of them turned out to be great fits for me and valuable learning experiences even though they were never roles I initially thought I would be going after. Going into a job with a one-track mind can hurt you in the long run. Being inflexible can prevent you from being able to discover new areas of the industry you never knew you could be interested in. In the end, some jobs end up surprising you. You might surprise yourself with what you love. Don’t be afraid of taking jobs you are apprehensive about. This too shall pass. You are just starting out; spending a year or two in a role just to learn is okay. Use it as a jumping off point for the rest of your career.”

Internships are a remarkable learning tool for our scholars, and reflecting on past experiences in these positions can help shape career paths down the road. One scholar asked our alumni panel to discuss some of their personal likes and dislikes regarding their previous internship positions. “I always really wanted to go into fashion,” Meghan said. “I studied fashion merchandising in college and was set on going into buying. I worked at LeSportSac with their buying team and loved it. I was able to be hands on and get deeply involved in the process. However, I also learned that buying was not for me. My direct supervisor taught me so much, and is still one of my mentors to this day. I wrote down everything that I learned while there, and used it to help me with school projects, and with life. I would advise you to write everything down and ask every question that comes to mind.” Shota went on to add some of the lessons he gleaned from his internship experiences. “You should remember that you are not necessarily married to a specific internship position,” he advised. “I started working at a company that ran hospitals for my first internship. While I knew I didn’t want to stay within that industry, I took the job because it was there, and ended up actually thoroughly enjoying it. Internships are for getting experience. No one is going to think that you are only good at working in one industry because you were employed there for eight weeks one summer. Recruiters look for potential. If your past employers feel you to have been a great worker and recommend you, you have the potential to work anywhere. For this reason, never burn any bridges. You never know whose help you are going to need, or what other areas people are involved in. Never burn bridges.”

Making the leap from student to employee can be a rather stressful endeavor. Discovering how to navigate this new world of work is a challenge. “How do you balance excelling in your work with maintaining your personal wellbeing?” a scholar asked. “Give yourself downtime. You are all very hard working and shouldn’t slack off, but you deserve downtime,” Shota replied. “You have to be able to process all of your work and the things happening in your life. If you’re not happy, that means something needs to change. If you’ve been unhappy at a job for a long time, it might be time to look for a different place of work. Work, life – it all goes together. You have to find a balance,” he explained. “You have to ask yourself ‘why’,” Marlena added. “Why do I like this? Why do I want to be doing this? Be extremely honest with yourself. If the answer to your ‘why’ is that you think this is what people expect of you, or because you are looking for status, and not because you wake up so motivated to do your work each day, it may be time for change,” she said honestly. “You have to be able to stop comparing yourself to others. If you are always comparing yourself to other people, you will never be happy. You are all obviously very talented- that is why you’re here. What is important is to not let what others are doing make you feel as though you have to follow the exact same route in your career path. The pressure to preform well will never go away, but the way you fight that off is by continually asking yourself what makes you happy and what goals you have for yourself.”

Alumni’s Words of Wisdom:

Networking is a round the clock job, and the person you need to meet for the next step in your career could be anywhere.

Stay true to yourself.

You might surprise yourself with what you love.

Never burn any bridges.

If you really love what you are doing, it won’t feel like work.

Work, life – it all goes together. You have to find a balance. 

Macy’s Networking Session – Marc Mastronardi & YMA FSF Alumni Panel

YMA FSF Board of Governor and FSF Scholarship Chair Marc Mastronardi recently shared his time with our scholars, delivering an inspirational speech on his experiences in retail and answering their questions on the future of the industry. Marc has been with Macy’s for over 20 years and is currently the EVP of New Business Development and Innovation. While Marc has excelled in the retail world, when he was an undergraduate student he expected his career to take him elsewhere. Having studied finance and accounting at Boston College, Mastronardi had every intention of pursuing a career in finance upon graduation. A visit to his university from the then CEO of Filene’s completely changed his perspective. After the CEO’s speech, Marc was able to speak with her for a few minutes. It was then that she convinced Mastronardi to give retail a try. Marc accepted her offer and decided to venture out into retail; he hasn’t looked back since.

After Macy’s acquisition of Filene’s, Marc worked his way through a number of roles and departments at Macy’s, including General Merchandise Manager. In his current role in New Business Development, Marc and his team work to find innovative ways to advance Macy’s as a company and continue to excel at retail. As the landscape of the industry is quickly evolving, the presence of a team like Marc’s is more important than ever. 

A major discussion topic in the industry at the moment is how to keep brick and mortar relevant. In New York City, many companies are able to create large and exciting brick and mortar locations that can’t be experienced in the same way elsewhere in the country. “How is Macy’s trying to bring the experiences found in the Herald Square location to the rest of their stores across the country?” one scholar asked.  “There is no doubt that this location is special,” Marc said, “And we want to keep it special. Nevertheless, there are definitely entertainment features in this location that we can bring into our other locations. We will bring it physically or digitally through emerging technologies, which are really not so far off anymore. We are always looking for ways to make the in-store experience more important and enjoyable.”

 “What do you see the future of department stores to be?” another scholar said. Mastronardi responded that there has certainly been some disruption in the way department stores function. “The role of stores is changing. They will no longer only be the place of commerce,” he stated. “Stores will also be more so a place of discovery and inspiration. Technologies are likely to have scale in the future. Virtual reality, 3D printing –these are all likely to have a role in stores moving forward. If you can make it work correctly, department stores can be the anchors of a lot of communities.”

After Marc spoke, our scholars were given the opportunity to hear from a panel of FSF alumni who are currently employed at Macy’s in a wide array of departments. The alumni in attendance were Patrick McCabe, Designer for Men's Dress Shirts and Neckwear, Felicia Podberesky, Associate Designer for JM Collection, Abbie Luzecky, Omni Associate Merchandise Planner, Marlena Meyer, Analytical Consulting Manager, and Samantha Duke, Product Manager for Men's Dress Shirts. Nicole Rosario, a member of Macy’s Human Resources Executive Development Program, moderated the panel. 

Nicole began by asking the alumni to go over what their job entails and the role they play within the company. “I work in product development,” said Samantha.  “I went to school for fashion merchandising and always knew I wanted to do something outside of buying, but wasn’t really quite sure what it was. I think product development is the perfect combination of the art and the science of this industry. There’s a lot of math, science, and business analytical skills involved, but there is also a very fun, creative, product-focused side to it. When you’re in product development at Macy’s, you get to touch every single part of the organization in one day. You’re constantly in connection with your buyer and your planner, creating strategies for the season you’re going into. You’re working on so many things at once. You have to constantly be thinking ahead.” 

Marlena went on to speak about her past role as a buyer within the organization. “The buyer really focuses on the product and on the relationship with the vendor,” she said. “They work really closely with the planner to understand what is the right product at the right time in the right location. The time and location is much more for the planner to focus on, and the product is for the buyer. Some other topics that the buyer works on are marketing and pricing. Additionally, while Macys.com and Macy’s are now merged, we still have a separate role called the “digital merchant” just for Macys.com, which can be described as a store manager for our online division. As a buyer, you work a lot with the digital merchant to discover what products need to be purchased for the online site.” The panel all agreed that this is a fast paced industry in which things are constantly changing. “Each day is different, and as a planner you need to stay up to date with in-store and online purchases,” Abbie added. “No day is the same.”

Nicole then went on to ask our panel what they felt were some of the most important skills needed to be successful in this industry. “From a design perspective, things can change very quickly,” Felicia said. "You need to constantly have new ideas and try to push the envelope in terms of what you are creating. Even if your customer is not the trendiest or most fashionable, she still wants something new and wants to feel beautiful. You have to figure out what is new to her, and give it to her."

Patrick added to the necessary skills for a designer. “You obviously need to understand Illustrator, Photoshop, and how to put together a tech pack,” he said, “But I think the most important thing I’ve learned is how to understand your customer and what they’re looking for. You need to understand what they want – not just for right now, but what they will be looking for one year from now. Being able to define what a brand means is important.”

Macy’s Words of Wisdom:

Networking really is a job. It is a commitment to the effort, not a social engagement.

If you want to create a best in class customer experience, pay attention to every detail.

Whether or not your customer is considered the trendiest or the most fashionable, she still wants something new, and wants to feel beautiful. You have to figure out what is new to her, and bring it to her.

For the customer, it is not just about shopping for ‘you’, it’s about shopping for ‘you in this moment.’

Breakfast with the Boss - Malie Bingham, PVH

Malie Bingham has been a designer at PVH since 2002, specializing in cut & sew knits and sweaters. In 2016, Malie founded Pick Glass, an online resource for fashion industry professionals.  She uses her platform to help educate industry members on how to navigate their network and stay up to date with what is going on in the fashion world. Malie is an involved member of the YMA FSF community, and our scholars were fortunate enough to be able receive advice from her on how to approach networking in the fashion industry.

 “Tell me the truth,” Malie asked, “What do you all think about networking? When people hear the word ‘networking,’ a lot of people think about networking events, reaching out to brands or influencers that you like, or having friends introduce you to someone you might like to know. The truth is, you always need to be networking.” Malie explained that networking is an important aspect of everyday life. Whether you’re looking for a new job, trying to promote your work, or just looking to stay up to date with the happenings in the industry, you need to build a strong network.  “You don’t only network when you are looking for a job; you network to create a group of people that you can always turn to for support in helping you reach your goals.”

When it comes to networking, many people wait until they need something from others to reach out. Malie advised our scholars not to do so. “Don’t wait to connect with people until you need something. Keep them updated on your work; create a conversation. This way, when you do need something, it can come up naturally and won’t seem rude.” Bingham also pointed out that connecting with people who work at companies of interest to you is a good way to get your foot in the door. “It is proven that you will get more jobs through people that you know, instead of just by applying to jobs posted on job boards.  Connect with humans, not a black hole, and you are more likely to see positive results.”

Growing your network is a truly fundamental part of progressing on your own career journey. “Your network is your net worth,” Malie said. “Many people feel like your work should speak for itself, so you need to make sure that your network knows your work and its value. When your network knows the worth of your work, more opportunities will come your way.” The hardest part of networking for many people is not the initial connection, but staying in touch later. Malie stressed that keeping your connections in the loop as you further your career is a great way to strengthen your ties. She went on to explain that staying in touch doesn’t have to be complicated. “For example, before you leave your job this summer, send your superiors personalized thank you notes,” she suggested. She also recommended initiating conversation on LinkedIn or through email by asking your connections a question, such as “Are you still working at XYZ Company?” Using a question to begin a conversation raises your chances of getting a response.

“You said a good way to connect with people is to update them on what you’re involved in. Are people really interested in keeping up with that we are doing?” one scholar asked. “Yes,” Malie replied, “But you should try and ask them about themselves as well. You can thank people for the time they’ve spent with you or for things they’ve taught you; people like to feel appreciated. Make the person you’re connecting with feel good about it.”
 
“In the past after an internship,” another student asked, “I’d ask for a letter of recommendation, and I wouldn’t receive a response. How do I deal with that type of situation?” Malie reiterated the importance of following up with your connections. “I know a lot of people are very busy in this industry,” Malie said. “Try following up a second time to give them a gentle nudge. Additionally, you could even write a recommendation for them on LinkedIn! Do a small write up of how much you enjoyed working there and what you learned.”

“Networking is really important in every career field,” one scholar noted. “How does the fashion industry differ in terms of networking?” Malie responded that the fashion industry is a lot more concentrated on partnership. “I think that it’s more about collaboration in the fashion industry. PVH is a huge company with many buildings. Even so, I’ve had to work with lots of people in many different departments to get projects completed. People are also doing tons of start-ups now in collaboration with many other different people – not just other fashion industry workers, but people from every sector,” she said. “Collaboration is the new currency.”

Malie’s Words of Wisdom:

“Connect with humans and not a black hole.”

“Your network is your net worth.”

“Collaboration is the new currency.”

“Always try to give more than you get.”

Breakfast with the Boss: Dana Manciagli, Global Career Expert & Job Search Coach

Dana Manciagli has spent the majority of her life working on the hiring side of business; she’s become quite an expert on job search and recruiting processes. She had a plethora of amazing tips to share during her presentation with our scholars.

Dana began her professional career working at IBM in sales. She later worked with a number of global companies that gave her the opportunity to travel internationally and experience the business world in Asia, Europe, and Latin America. After coming back to the United States to work at Kodak and Microsoft, Dana decided it was time to branch out on her own and begin life as an entrepreneur. She started her own business as an executive and job search coach, author, and speaker.

Dana poured a great deal of her expertise into her book, Cut the Crap™, Get a Job! A New Job Search Process for a New Era, which she accompanied with an in-depth digital guide to job search. During her event with the YMA, Dana walked our scholars through her program and gave them advice on how to optimize their job search processes. “On a scale of one to ten,” Dana asked, “how do you all feel about the idea of looking for a job?” Many scholars admitted that they were rather apprehensive about the procedure, and weren’t quite sure where to begin. “It is okay to be nervous. By the end of this session, we’re going to raise your confidence and your ability to look for a job,” Manciagli encouraged.

“When job searching, I believe there are two kinds of ‘crap,’” Dana explained. “The first is excuses. Don’t let the idea that you are not qualified enough or too inexperienced prevent you from applying for jobs,” she said. “The second is mistakes. There are a number of popular mistakes that hold people back from getting the job of their choice. With a few simple changes, you can avoid making those.”

Dana went on to explain that because the job process has changed in the past few years, there are many more people applying to the same jobs. This means that recruiters don’t have time for errors like typos on résumés or candidates arriving late to interviews. Avoiding mistakes such as these can go a long way toward helping you further your career.

“There are five struggles that job seekers commonly face,” Dana stated. “First, many people apply to a number of jobs through online job boards without doing any research beforehand.” Dana told our scholars that when looking for jobs, they need to first figure out what they want from their careers, and then research the job roles available that fit their desired goals. To validate how realistic their dream job is, Dana encouraged our scholars to try to find ten jobs online that fit the description they created. “If you can’t find ten jobs that match you desired description, you’re looking for a unicorn,” she shared. Armed with this knowledge about your career path options, you can then make your way to the job search preparation phase.

“Often people don’t take the process of looking for jobs as seriously as they take their current job projects or their school work,” Manciagli went on. “Why are most job-seekers very organized when it comes to school or work, but use yellow sticky notes to track their job applications? You need to stay organized and focused when it comes to planning for your future career, and take it as seriously as you would take any other professional engagement.”

“Additionally,” Dana went on, “You need to tailor your approach to the company you’re applying to. They are the buyer and you are the product. You have to fit their needs if you want to work there. The last two most common mistakes are ones that are easily avoidable – being unprepared for interviews, and being a poor networker. Do your research ahead of time and arrive prepared.”

Dana then led the scholars through the three major phases of searching for a job – setting your goal, doing your research, and applying and interviewing. When setting your goal, she stressed having specific details in mind. “You need to figure out what you’re looking for. Don’t be vague – define the functional area, industry, company type, company size, and location you are interested in,” she said. “Hiring managers want to hire people who are passionate about their jobs. When searching for positions to apply to, it’s okay to keep your options open. However, when approached by a recruiter for a specific company position, you need to show your relevance and passion for that exact position. You can present two paths you are interested in if needed, but it’s important to show confidence in the direction in which you want to head.”

Dana then delivered some tips about résumé formatting, going over the standard resume layouts our scholars should be using, and optimum organization of the content. We then moved into LinkedIn etiquette. “When you connect with others on LinkedIn, be sure to do so on your computer, not on your phone. This way you are able to send a personalized message to each person you connect with,” she urged. “Doing so significantly raises the chances of your connection request being accepted.”

Equipped with Dana’s advice, our scholars left feeling a lot better about the job search process than they did before the workshop. When it comes to looking for a job, you need to do your research, and properly prepare. If you give the job search process the attention and dedication it requires, you’re bound to see results.

Dana’s Words of Wisdom:

You need to take the job search process as seriously as you take your current employment or schoolwork. There are no shortcuts.

Don’t let inexperience stop you from going after jobs.

Hiring managers want to hire people who are passionate about their jobs.

Breakfast with the Boss: Ilse Metchek, The California Fashion Association

Ilse Metchek, founder of the California Fashion Association, has been a part of the fashion industry for all of her professional career. She began her journey as a fitting model, showroom salesperson, and designer, working her way up to own the company she worked for. She then became president of White Stag Inc., a women’s clothing brand owned by Warnaco. Subsequently, she became the executive director of the California Mart (now the California Market Center) where she established the California Fashion Association as a non-profit business-to-business organization to provide information for expansion and growth to the apparel and textile industry of California. Given her extensive experience in the industry, Ilse was able to provide our scholars with an amazingly in-depth overview of the industry. 

“Fashion functions differently from other businesses, so you need to approach it differently,” Isle said. It is the intersection of business and creativity. It takes great creativity, but it demands analytical and administrative skills as well. Ilse began her outline of the industry by discussing distribution. “In the United States,” Ilse explained, “There is no single way to get your product into stores and homes. There are a multitude of different channels that you need to understand.” Today, purchases for retail goods can be made through television infomercials, mobile sites, pop-up shops, catalogs, and much more - all in addition to traditional brick and mortar retail stores. This multi-channel approach has a strong impact on the overall functionality of the retail industry.
“Fashion doesn’t start in big department store chains,” Ilse stated,  “It starts in the mom and pop shops, and with the cool kids – where people will attempt new styles and trends without fear of failure. When trends take off in the small stores, then they will make it into the big chains and head towards mass production.” Metchek went on to say that in today’s technologically dominated world, it is clear that sales for fashion apparel in traditional department stores are in decline. The new retail cash cow, however, is off price retailing. Saks Off Fifth, Nordstrom Rack, and Macy’s Backstage are brick and mortar locations that have the potential to succeed because of the treasure-hunt experience they give consumers. With the recent surge in e-commerce, consumers need to feel a reason to come in to physical stores. Off price retailers provide them with the needed motivation.

 Metchek went on to discuss sourcing, another crucial part of the retail process. “Why do so many companies use global sourcing?” Ilse asked. “They do so because of the difference in production costs and regulations abroad.” She explained that while producing goods domestically provides you with higher margins, more control over the process, and a quicker turnaround, it is a much more expensive process. Polls show that while many American consumers say that they are interested in “made-in-USA” apparel, they are not willing to pay a substantially higher price for domestically produced goods. Ilse explained that for this reason, the majority of major companies choose to engage in production overseas. International production used to be predominantly concentrated in China, but over the last decade or so we’ve seen some dispersal into other countries and regions. Metchek emphasized that because of this, it is imperative that you understand geography when working in this industry. “Which country is best for manufacturing swimsuits?” Ilse said. “How much are customs and duties there? How many factories do they have available? This is all information you need.”

“One of the biggest issues in retail is intellectual property,” Ilse stated.  She went on to explain some of the legalities involved with the issue. “While trademarks are necessary in this industry, patents are rare.” Trademarks refer to logos, phrases, and symbols, while patents refer to designs and technology. Copyrights are used to protect artwork, and are one of the more complicated parts of retail. Trade Dress refers to images that are recognized as associated with a certain brand, without the need for a logo or brand names. This refers to things like the blue box and white ribbon associated with Tiffany’s, and the classic red bottom of Louboutin shoes. While there are no obvious logos on these items, it is very clear that they belong to a certain company. Ilse went on to speak about the current discussion about the legality of ‘knock-offs’ and how the recent technological boom has led to a rise in counterfeiting. With regard to ‘copying’, she quoted Marc Jacobs as stating, “Nothing is truly original anymore; when you’re talking about fashion, lose the word ‘original’.” Coco Chanel is quoted as saying “Being copied is the ransom of success.’”

With retail’s rapidly changing landscape, major companies are making big changes in attempts to keep up. “What do you think of Wal-Mart buying Modcloth and Bonobos?” one scholar asked. “I think Wal-Mart woke up!” Ilse responded. “But still, they are going to have to compete with Amazon and the brands that Amazon is launching. In the past when stores like Wal-Mart bought brands, they became the manufacturer and, in some cases, reduced the quality drastically. Now the trend is for the retailers to let the brands they buy continue to manufacture the product as long as they fit the correct price point. This allows for quality control.”
 

Environmentalism has also been a recent trend on the rise, not just in retail, but also in a large array of industries. “How do you feel about sustainability in retail?” another student inquired. “It’s hard to say,” replied Metchek honestly. “What really is sustainability? It means different things depending on the angle from which you approach it. The use of different varieties of products has an assortment of benefits and drawbacks depending on your perspective.” She explained that, on the whole, there is no one sustainable method of production for retail. We can do our best to not be wasteful, but a cure-all has yet to be found.
 

When it comes to succeeding in the retail world, you really need to ground yourself in a deep knowledge of the industry. One scholar asked Ilse, “Where do you look to gather research on the retail world?” She responded, “In general, look to history, celebrities, and visuals. The way fashion happens is through creativity, but the reason it happens can be traced to economics and a historical perspective.”

Ilse Metchek’s Words of Wisdom

“Fashion doesn’t start in big department store chains, it starts in the mom and pop shops, and with the cool kids – where people will attempt new styles and trends without fear of failure.”

“As Marc Jacobs said, ‘When you’re talking about fashion, lose the word “original” - and Coco Chanel said, “Being copied is the ransom of success.’”

“Retail is where business meets creativity. We need both to succeed.”

“The way fashion happened is through creativity, but the reason it happen can be traced to economics and a historical perspective.”

Breakfast with the Boss: Dean Norman, President & COO of Hot Sox

President and COO of Hot Sox, Dean Norman gleaned his southern charm from growing up in North Carolina. While Dean has been incredibly successful in the retail industry, retail wasn’t always exactly where he imagined he’d end up when he was growing up. Dean Norman went to North Carolina State University as a pre-veterinary student and received a degree in animal science. However, when it came time to go off to veterinary school, he quickly learned that was not exactly the direction he was intended to head in. “Where you think you’re going to end up,” Dean said, “and where you actually end up, are often very different.” North Carolina had a massive textile industry, thriving with hundreds of textile mills across the state. In fact, Norman’s father was an executive for Burlington Industries, historically one of the largest textile companies in the world. Dean knew he needed a fresh start, and with some connections in textiles, he chose to venture out into retail.

Once he made his choice, Dean decided to go to New York City – or as he likes to call it, “the center of the universe.” “If it is really your goal, you have to get to New York. Just move here,” he said. “There are places around the world that have opportunities for fashion, sure, but NYC is the place to be.” He began his career working at a German textile company selling yarn. He moved rather quickly through jobs, which was not quite as acceptable as a trend then as it is now. “I went through about five jobs in ten years,” Dean recalled. However, as time passed and Norman gained more experience, he made the decision to begin his own company centered around socks. He needed to challenge himself, and beginning a new business was just the way to do it. 

Dean eventually decided to further his technical business skills and learn more about the world of finance by receiving an MBA from Wake Forest University. “You have to be aggressive with your own career,” he said. This meant actively reaching for that higher position at your company, going out of your way to further educate yourself on the industry you are in – doing what it takes to get to where you want to be. He took these skills with him into his future business endeavors, first at Gold Toe, and then Hot Sox, where he currently holds the President and COO title.
Hot Sox has become one of the most successful sock companies in the world, with licensing deals with Ralph Lauren and getting to work with other notorious brands such as Vera Bradley and New Balance. Owned by the parent company Renfro, Hot Sox sells to every major department store in the world.
 

“How do you spend most of your time in your position?” one scholar asked Dean.  “I have six or seven director reports,” Norman responded. “A lot of my time is spent talking to them. I try to give each department the attention they deserve on a given day. I talk about big picture topics like how to meet our sales goals and how to adjust our approach if needed to meet those goals. We discuss our numbers for the month, quarter, and year every single week. We need to make sure we are staying on track and making sure we are taking the correct steps to meet our target.”

 “What is the biggest lesson you learned from working at Gold Toe that you brought to Hot Sox?” another scholar asked.  “When I worked at Gold Toe, we had a 50% market share of the socks market, which is huge” Dean said. “At the time, socks were a very basic item, not as stylized as they are now. They were simply a replenishment item that you could buy anywhere. From that job I learned how to build a strong replenishable model. When I started my career, socks were 90% replenishment and 10% fashion. Today, fashion is close to 30%. Socks are one of the hottest accessories in the market. People still need socks and they are still a replenishable item; however, ‘the sizzle sells the bacon.’”

“You experienced some major career path changes on your way to your current role,” one scholar noted. “In the retail industry specifically, if you start by doing one thing, like finance for instance, can you move into something like design?” Having some personal experience with this question, Dean responded quite emphatically. “Yes! In fact, I recommend it. At Hot Sox we really encourage people to explore and keep learning. Like in my own career story, we have people in our company moving from department to department internally all the time. Good talent is good talent. If I have dedicated, talented employees who want to try something new within my company, I want to keep them, and give them a chance to explore.”

“Going off of that, what advice do you have to help make rising talent more attractive to companies?” another asked.  “We hire a lot of entry-level people at this company because we really want to promote them,” Dean said. “Resumes are hard to judge by, so interviews make a huge impact. You need to do your research and know what you’re talking about. It’s flattering to hear someone say that they know about your work. The way you present yourself is so important. You have to have an answer to questions like ‘where do you see yourself in 5 years?’ Have a sense of direction and show some ambition. Work on your interpersonal skills and put them to use. When you work for a company, you are ALWAYS representing that company. Additionally, it is so important to dress the part. This is a visual industry – dress like it. I mean, you can wear anything you want. However, think of it this way: if we have a meeting with our largest account, which for us is Ralph Lauren, would you feel comfortable the way you are dressed? Show a little savvy in how you present yourself. I would always rather be overdressed than under dressed.”

Dean went on to offer some wisdom on how young talent like our scholars should approach their newfound career path. “Don’t take a job because it’s the highest paying or the highest profile,” he urged, “Take a job because you’re going to learn the most. You have to aggressively manage your career. You need to be asking ‘What more can I do?’ Keep asking, “How you need to get to the next level?” The cream rises to the top. It really does.” Norman went on to encourage the scholars to be able to define their career path. If you don’t know what your career path is at a company, or if there is no upward mobility, he suggested they find a new place of work. “There is nobody waking up in the morning thinking about you and your career besides you,” Dean stated honestly. “Your degree only opens the first door for you. After that, it’s really up to you to manage your career and get where you want to be.”

Dean chose to carve out a space in the sock industry over working in something like finance because he felt that he could make a real impact in that sector. He was hungry to learn and grow, and for him, retail allowed him to do so. In his own company, Hot Sox, Dean strives to give his employees the same opportunity for growth that he searched for a young man. “I know what each employee in my company does and I tell them that if they left right now,” Dean said, “It would have a huge affect. You all make an impact.” Dean Norman has learned and grown immensely during his time in retail, and is really grateful for the experiences he’s gained. While he loves New York City, he still has a soft spot for his southern roots. After building his company up to the level it is today, Dean made the choice to come full circle and split his time between New York City – the center of the universe – and his home, North Carolina. 

Dean’s Words of Wisdom:

“Where you think you’re going to end up, and where you actually end up, are often very different.”

“Don’t take a job because it’s the highest paying or the highest profile. Take a job because you’re going to learn the most.”

“Getting a job should be all about gaining experience.”

“If you don’t ask, you’ll never know.”

“Expectation and perception are everything.”

“The sizzle sells the bacon.”

Breakfast with the Boss: Durand Guion, Fashion Director at Macy’s

Durand went on to explain that as the Fashion Director of Macy’s, you are handed a number of responsibilities. One of the main tasks is trend forecasting. This involves discovering what colors, silhouettes, patterns, and more are going to be instrumental in the coming seasons, and then using that information to help direct your buyers as to what they should purchase. “As a Fashion Director,” Durand explained, “your mind has to be on four seasons at once; prepping for the coming spring and fall collections in the next year, handling the incoming inventory for the current season, and reflecting on the lessons learned from the previous season. You need to be present, yet forward looking.” Guion also stressed that trend forecasting can be a tricky task to master. “You never want to be too early or too late to a trend, as that can be detrimental to your sales. With the recent rise of social media, the trend cycle has become even faster.” Anyone can log on to Instagram or Snapchat and view the most recent looks from New York Fashion Week quite literally as they are walked down the runway. As a Fashion Director, you need to be able keep up.

 “How do you personally predict trends?” a scholar asked. “Part of it is research, and part of it is gut instinct,” Durand said honestly. “You really have to live it. You need to look at things like what other stores are doing and what celebrities are wearing.” Durand went on to mention that because of the variability in trends, it can be hard to convince your company’s buyers that the trends you predicted are really what the consumers are going to want to purchase. “Influencing buyers to make purchases on items they are not quite ready for yet can be difficult,” Durand said. When you are purchasing products for 500 department stores around the country, it is a huge financial investment. If your trend predictors are really off, it can mean a big loss in revenue. “As a Fashion Director,” Guion said, “you need buyers to trust you.”

With so many different aesthetics, managing trends can be difficult. “Sometimes many different trends can rise at once,” one scholar noted. “How do you balance all the different trends within Macy’s?” Durand responding saying that, “We run things through what we call the ‘trend curve.’ The curve starts with incoming trends at the base, then moving to pre-peak, peak, and then down with post-peak, and out going trends,” he explained. “You need to time your purchase of trend items accurately. Sometimes trends can last quite a long time. When trends sit at peak for a long time, as a Fashion Director you need to find ways to evolve it, and keep it fresh. But at the same time, what is a lasting trend in the west coast stores may not be what is popular in the east coast stores. You need to be able to manage trends regionally as well.”

“As we’ve seen become more and more popular in recent years, men get extremely excited about purchasing items like sneakers and shoes,” a scholar noted. “It seems like men’s fashion has begun to evolve. How do you channel the excitement men get from shoe shopping into shopping for clothes?” she asked. “Men’s fashion has definitely begun to evolve, which I love,” expressed Guion. “For men, you need to make fashion feel really accessible. I took a risk this year and convinced my buyers to purchase khaki suits for the spring 2017 season. They were very apprehensive at first.” Durand went on to explain that the typical Macy’s consumer wouldn’t really want to make a huge investment in a seasonal suit; they would prefer to purchase a classic navy or black. Making a sale on a seasonal suit has historically been rather difficult for them. “What I did to make the khaki suit more accessible however, is show its versatility. I did a whole spread about five ways to wear your khaki suit – cuff the trousers and wear it with a patterned shirt, wear the jacket with a pair of jeans, and so on. When the suits hit the stores accompanied by that campaign, it was amazing. The khaki suits were a huge success.”

“With the age of the internet, e-commerce has really taken off,” a scholar mentioned. “How does Macy’s plan to handle the recent surge in e-commerce?” they asked.  “While e-commerce is certainly a huge deal right now,” Durand said, “it is important to remember that it is only 10-15% of all worldwide sales. While retail is certainly evolving, brick and mortar is not dead.” He went on to say, “However, the retail experience needs to change. People need to feel good when they enter a physical store. The way people shop has changed. One of the reasons for this is that we don’t have different wardrobes for every occasion anymore. You can wear whatever you want whenever you want. People are spending less on buying clothes and more on traveling and eating. We need to make retail an experience consumers want to invest in.”

The scholars closed out the session by asking Durand what his personal aspirations were in his role. “You’ve been at Macy’s for such a long time now, and I’m sure have evolved a great deal in your role,” said one scholar. “What are your own goals for growth?” she asked. “I’m a doer,” said Durand, “but with time I’ve learned that I can’t do everything. What I need to learn to do, and what I strive to do, is to teach, encourage, and motivate those around me.”